ROSES 
Flowering Shrubs 
FRUIT TREES 
31 
(Continued from Page 3) 
es—but do not cut these back. These limbs 
will form the permanent framework for the 
top and subsequent growth may be pruned 
to meet the requirements or taste of the 
planter. 
BERRIES. (The “Cane Fruits’’). Pre¬ 
pare the ground by deep spading or plow¬ 
ing. Set the plants 3 or 4 inches deep, 
using a spade or garden trowel. Plant in 
rows 4 to 6 feet apart with the plants from 
2 to 4 feet apart in the row. Firm the dirt 
around each plant. Keep the surface of 
the ground loose around the plants. The 
cane fruits bear on wood of the previous 
season’s growth and it is important, there¬ 
fore, to cut the old canes away as soon as 
they have fruited, or in the fall or winter 
following. The following year, when the 
canes are three to four feet high, cut them 
back one-third to strengthen the cane and 
to promote growth of lateral branches for 
more fruit production. 
GRAPE VINES. In vineyard planting, 
grape vines should be planted 8 to 10 feet 
apart in rows which are 9 to 10 feet apart. 
Grapes require a dry, mellow, well drained 
soil, deeply worked and well enriched, 
with a warm, sunny exposure where pos¬ 
sible. In planting give the roots plenty of 
room, spread them out not more than 6 
inches under the surface and settle the soil 
firmly around them. When vines are set, 
they should be cut back to 2 or 3 buds, also 
prune roots back one-half. The following 
year, in November or in the early spring, 
following, before there are any signs of new 
growth, they should be pruned liberally. 
Do not pick off the foliage; the leaves, not 
the fruit, should be exposed to the sun. 
The two great errors in grape growing are 
in neglecting to cut off useless wood in the 
fall or spring and in depriving the plant 
of necessary foliage by close pruning in 
the summer. The method of pruning from 
this stage forward will be governed by the 
use or purpose in mind. For fruit produc¬ 
tion the following method is to be recom¬ 
mended: Set posts along the rows of vines 
(after they have made at least one year’s 
growth) and stretch two strong wires, the 
lower wire 2% feet from the ground and 
the upper wire 5 feet. A single cane from 
the vine is grown to the top wire. All buds 
are broken from this except four, two just 
below each wire. As these buds grow out, 
they are fastened to the wire, one in each 
direction—forming four arms. In the fall 
or winter, cut these “arms” back to four 
or eight buds, according to the vigor of 
the vines. In the spring, tie these arms 
securely to the wire and allow the growth 
from each bud to hang down. Each year 
in the future cut out all new growth from 
the original arms, except the two new 
canes nearest and on either side of the 
main trunk. These canes are cut back to 6 
to 10 buds. The fruit of the grape is borne 
only on shoots of the current year’s 
growth, which spring from the wood of 
last year’s growth—hence the importance 
of annual and intelligent pruning. When 
grape vines are planted to grow over ar¬ 
bors, pergolas, walls, fence, etc., the lateral 
branches or “shoots” from the main trunk 
should be cut back each year to within 
three or four buds. During the growing 
season, all buds that start from the main 
vine should be removed. 
ROSES AND SHRUBS. If planted in 
beds or groups, the ground should be 
spaded deeply and worked well. If shrubs 
are set as individual specimens, they 
should be planted in the same manner as 
trees. Set shrubs at the same depth at 
which they stood in the nursery row or 
with their crowns at about the surface of 
the ground. Set Roses 2 to 3 inches deeper. 
The plants should be watered in sum¬ 
mer during the hot, dry weather and 
the ground stirred well around them. Re¬ 
move the dead wood and weak shoots from 
the inside of the shrub and shorten the 
branches that have made undesirable 
growth. When shrubs are planted, it is 
advisable to cut them baxk from one-third 
to one-half. Cut roses back to 4 or 5 
inches. 
SHADE TREES, ORNAMENTAL 
TREES. Dig holes large enough to ac¬ 
commodate all roots without bending or 
cramping them. Fill the hole with good 
top dirt and firm it hard. When the hole 
is half filled, allow a bucket or more of 
water to seep away around the roots. A 
day or two later, tramp the dirt hard, but 
leave loose dirt on the surface. It is well 
to mulch the tree immediately to prevent 
drying out. Prune all limbs back to five 
or seven good buds, even though the ap¬ 
pearance of the tree is impaired by such 
treatment. Water the trees during the 
summer months and give them plenty of 
attention until they become well estab¬ 
lished. Shade trees often may be staked to 
advantage until their roots have obtained 
good anchorage in the soil. 
EVERGREENS. Plant the same as shade 
trees, but do not prune. 
PRIVET. Dig a trench 12 inches deep or 
more and set the plants 4 inches deeper 
than they stood in the nursery row— for, 
if the plants are set shallow, there always 
will be undesirable open spaces at the base 
of the hedge. Some planters set privet in 
a double row, 8 to 10 inches apart each 
way, which makes a very dense hedge. Cut 
Privet back one-half to two-thirds when 
planting to promote thick, new growth at 
the lower part of the plant. 
