PLANTING SUGGESTIONS 
The above peach tree is shown pruned for 
planting. Notice that all of the growth has not 
been removed from the trunk; that four well¬ 
spaced laterals have been preserved as a 
foundation for the main scaffold branches. In 
some cases, as with apples, cherries and 
pears, there are no laterals on the young 
nursery trees; buds existing between two and 
three feet above the union are capable of pro¬ 
ducing lateral branches when the tops are 
shortened. Care should be taken in shorten¬ 
ing the top that several "live" buds are left 
for this purpose. 
See how carefully “Roeding's Quality" trees 
are graded at our nurseries. 
11 / 16 " up 1/2 to 11 / 16 " 3/8 to 1/2" 1/4 to 3/3" 
FRUIT TREES 
When to Plant. Fruit trees are usually 
dug in this state in December. They 
may be planted any time after digging 
until April. January and February, how¬ 
ever, are usually the best planting 
months, and the earlier trees are put in 
the ground, the better growth they will 
usually make the first year. 
Treatment When Received. When trees 
are received from the nursery, unpack 
them at once, and unless they are to be 
immediately planted, heel them in by 
placing the roots in a trench and cover¬ 
ing with soil, which should then be 
thoroughly wet down. Do not permit the 
roots to dry out or freeze. 
Planting the Tree. Dig large holes—at 
least six inches larger each way than 
necessary to accommodate the roots. 
Cut back the ends of roots slightly, and 
remove entirely any broken roots. 
Don't plant too deep. Leave the bud 
union showing just above the surface. 
Fill in with top soil, and firm it well 
about the roots. If possible, it is an ex¬ 
cellent plan - to water the tree when 
planting. After filling the hole about 
three-fourths full, pour in several gal¬ 
lons of water. When this has soaked 
away, finish shoveling in the soil, level¬ 
ing up the ground around the tree. 
Don't fail to cut the top back. This is 
necessary in order to balance the top 
with the loss of roots which always 
takes place when a tree is dug from the 
nursery. If the top is not cut back the 
result is usually a slow, weak growing 
tree the first season. If the tree has side 
branches when received from the nur¬ 
sery, do not remove them all, but leave 
three or four, shortening them in. (See 
illustration on left). 
Developing the Tree. During May of the 
first season, select three or four young 
shoots, properly distributed around the 
trunk, and rub off all other growth. 
This will induce a maximum growth of 
the undisturbed branches. During the 
following winter, remove all growth of 
the preceding season except the three 
or four main branches or "leaders." 
(See illustration below.) Cut these 
back, removing from one-third to one- 
half their growth. During May of the 
second summer, encourage from one to 
two shoots coming from each of these 
main branches, and lightly pinch back 
other growth. The tree will thus be pro¬ 
vided with from five to seven main 
limbs, and this number is ample. With 
some varieties, no further cutting back 
is desirable after these main limbs are 
formed. In such cases subsequent prun¬ 
ing consists merely of thinning out, 
where the growth is too thick. With 
other varieties, it is necessary to con¬ 
tinue some cutting back, in order to 
induce proper branching, and to pre¬ 
vent a too upright growth. It should be 
kept in mind, however, that heavy prun¬ 
ing on young trees is not conducive to 
early bearing. 
GRAPEVINES 
January, February and March are the 
best months for planting grapevines. 
The rooted cuttings should be carefully 
pruned before setting in the ground. 
Shorten in all roots radiating from the 
base of the cutting to two or three 
inches long. Then prune the top of the 
vine, leaving only one lateral spur with 
one or two buds. As soon as pruned, the 
rooted cuttings should be placed in a 
bucket of water while holes are being 
dug. 
Dig holes large enough to accommo¬ 
date the vine with six inches to spare 
all around. Set the plant at a depth that 
will place the lateral spur two or three 
inches above ground level and fill in 
the hole with soil, using top soil first. 
Settle the soil firmly around the roots 
of the vine by soaking with water. 
When training on a fence or arbor 
select two strong canes to form the 
framework of the vine. Laterals pro¬ 
duced on these original canes should 
be pruned to two buds the following 
winter. Fruit is produced on the canes 
arising from these buds. 
PLANTS REQUIRED PER ACRE 
6x 6 feet 
1210 
22x22 feet 
90 
8x 8 feet 
680 
24x24 feet 
75 
10x10 feet 
435 
25x25 feet 
69 
12x12 feet 
302 
30x30 feet 
48 
15x15 feet 
193 
35x35 feet 
35 
16x16 feet 
170 
40x40 feet 
27 
18x18 feet 
134 
50x50 feet 
18 
20x20 feet 
109 
60x60 feet 
12 
The young tree below has had one season's 
growth. This picture shows three main scaf¬ 
fold branches selected the previous winter or 
spring and the two secondary branches al¬ 
lowed to remain on each of the main branches 
after pruning. All other growth has been 
pruned off. Careful distribution of branches 
provides a sturdy foundation for a fine tree 
capable of maximum production and is well 
worth extra attention. 
I f 
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