ELMER D. SMITH & CO. 
43 
The dates suggested in the catalog are fairly accurate in the northern states but 
in the south buds may not appear as early. This is due to the shortening of the 
daylight and cooler weather which usually manifests itself by mid-August. From 
the foregoing it is apparent no fast rule can be given. Every grower should mark 
the date each bud is selected and when single flowers result make note to advance 
the date for next year, if too double and malformed select a later bud. 
DEFECTIVE FOLIAGE —As a general rule, all defective foliage is due to a 
sudden check, such as: A drouth, over-watering, excessive heat or sudden low 
temperature. Any extreme or adverse condition has a tendency to abate growth 
for a time and the results of such spells are usually manifest in blighted or black¬ 
ened foliage. 
DEFORMED FLOWERS —The foregoing paragraph also applies to cases 
where flowers are onesided or when the center petals fail to develop. Another 
cause of imperfect flowers is too liberal a supply of nutriment, either in the form 
of manure incorporated in the soil, or too frequent or strong applications of liquid 
fertilizers. The more nourishment given, the stronger and more luxuriant the 
foliage becomes, so that after the buds are selected a continuance of such treat¬ 
ment is in excess of their needs, and the petals just forming are often destroyed 
or injured. Better results will follow by the use of a moderate amount of fer¬ 
tilizer during the growing season. All applications at this time should be light at 
first, gradually increasing until the maximum is reached at the time the buds 
begin to show color. 
Another cause of imperfect flowers is the depredation of the Tarnished Plant 
Bug. This as a rule applies to plants grown out of doors and in warm dry climates, 
a condition which is most favorable to their development. They do not eat the 
foliage but puncture the tender growth and extract the juice, thus checking the 
growth and if the buds are stung, they often produce one-sided flowers. 
LIFTING PLANTS —When lifting and potting plants from the open border, 
see that it is done before the buds appear. 
RESERVING STOCK —Those who save the old plants for the sake of per¬ 
petuating for the next seasons use, should (if protected under glass) keep them 
rather on the dry side and give them all the light and air possible at all times un¬ 
less severe weather prevents. 
Larger Flowering Varieties for Outdoor 
Culture in the North 
There seems to be a desire for growing larger and better chrysanthemums 
out of doors in the North and with this in mind, we have decided to make a few 
suggestions along this line. 
North of the Ohio River, it is advisable to either plant in a sheltered position 
or provide some means of protection against early frost. The chrysanthemum 
thrives better when grown in full sunlight, hence should be given a southern ex¬ 
posure. Under such conditions the wood ripens earlier thus producing earlier 
buds and flowers. 
It is very difficult to recommend varieties that will survive as much depends 
on the nature of the soil, the location, and severity of the winters. In a general 
way, the early and mid-season varieties, pages 6 to 11, are best adapted for this 
purpose. Many of the early hardy section, page 23, when restricted to a few 
growths, and each growth disbudded leaving only one bud to each branch, produce 
very nice blooms about four inches in diameter. 
Color Variation 
The originator of new varieties usually decides which bud to reserve or at 
what date the proper bud generally appears. Such data is important if like re- 
