Single and Japanese Type, in the order of blooming. 
The Japanese type is very similar to the single, having one to two rows of 
large outside petals with a tuft of petaloids in the center, while the singles 
have pollen-bearing stamens in the center. 
Singles, with tufts of bright yellow stamens in center. 
Albiflora, white .80c L’Etincelante deep pink 75c Nellie, pink .50c 
Constance pink .75c Le Jour, white .$1 Pride of Langport, pink 80c 
Japanese Type, with tufs of yellow or blended petaloids in center. 
Alma, light pink .75c 
Ama No Sode It. pink $1.50 
Dawn, light pink .75c 
Flashlight, red .75c 
Flamboyant, red .75c 
Gold Mine, red .$1 
Isana Gudui, white ....$2.50 
Mikado, red .50c 
Ohirama, light pink ....60c 
Rashooman, red .$1.25 
Some Gonoko, red .$1 
Sieru Somae, white.75c 
Tokio, light pink .$1.50 
Prices are for strong, 3 to 5 eye commercial divisions from three year old 
clumps with fresh solid vigorous root system. These are much superior to 
divisions from old hollow crown exhausted clumps usually offered by the “cheap 
Johns,” and which may take years to recover their vitality. 
Do not expect much from newly planted roots, the first flowers will 
not be typical as it takes a season or two to become established. 
PEONY CULTURE 
SUCCESS with Peonies follows only when we meet their requirements, a 
well drained fertile soil (a little clay helps) not too close to large shrubs, trees 
and hot walls and with at least a half day sun. 
Plant in early autumn with the eyes or sprouts not more than two inches 
below the surface after allowing for settling of the soil, keep the surface loose 
and free from weeds and grass and do not overwater, a good soaking once a 
week in dry soil is sufficient. 
Fertilizers should be used sparingly and carefully. A double handful of 
bone meal and ground lime rock mixed with the soil at planting time will carry 
them along a couple of years. 
Animal manure, unless well rotted and incorporated with the soil in advance 
of planting time, should not be used and never in contact with the roots. 
After two years it may be applied between the rows but not near the stalks, 
in early spring, then forked lightly below the surface. 
BUT MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL, good healthy roots should be obtained 
from a grower making a specialty of growing Peonies. 
Cheap roots are freely offered and there is usually something wrong with 
them, shy blooming, improperly handled, very often diseased and seldom give 
satisfaction. Avoid disappointment and regrets by starting right with healthy 
vigorous roots at a fair price. 
After blooming season is over, remove the faded flowers and seed pods. The 
tops must be left on to prepare for next season’s requirements, the foliage being 
the lungs of the plant. Late in the fall, when it has ceased to function and the 
tops collapse, cut them down close to the root, remove and burn. 
Colors may be intensified and preserved by cutting the blooms when the 
outside petals loosen up, allowing them to open slowly in a cool shady place 
with stems in deep cool water. 
In cutting, leave enough stem with foliage on the plant to mature the eyes 
or sprouts for next season. The cut buds should have all the lower foliage 
removed to prevent evaporation and wilting, leaving only enough foliage to 
appear well above the container. 
