CONVENTION — DAIRY BUSINESS. 
127 
then the motion of the churn should slacken. After the butter has 
come, there is a great variety of opinions of just how the butter 
should be handled so as to remove the buttermilk entirely. This 
must be done with the least possible working, or the grain of the 
butter will be injured. This I consider a very important point in 
the production of good butter, and upon which I gave my views at 
some length last year. I will here quote from Professor Arnold’s 
late work: 
“ Butter gathered in a churn always contains more or less butter¬ 
milk, which would soon spoil the butter if not removed. There 
are two ways of removing it. One is by kneading it in water or 
brine, and the other by kneading it without water. One is called 
“ washing ” and the other “ working.” The former removes it 
much more rapidly than the latter. As to which is the better way 
there are conflicting opinions. Some would not have their butter 
washed on any account, because they believe the flavor and the 
keeping of the butter are thereby injured; while others are equally 
tenacious in the use of water, and believe as firmly that the flavor 
and keeping are improved by washing. 
“ The flavor of butter which has been washed, is differem: from 
that which has not been washed. The difference between washed 
and unwashed butter is analagous to the difference between clari- 
fled and unclarified sugar. The former consists of pure saccharine 
matter, the latter of sugar and some albuminous and flavoring mat¬ 
ters which were contained in the juice of the cane mingled with it,, 
which give a flav^or in addition to that of the sugar. Brown sugar, 
though less sweet, has 7nore flavor than clarified sugar. When un¬ 
washed, there is always a little buttermilk and sugar adhering to 
the butter that give it a peculiar flavor in addition to that of pure 
butter, which many people like when it is new. Washing removes 
all this foreign matter and leaves only the taste of the butter pure 
and simple. Those who prefer the taste of the butter to the for¬ 
eign ingredients mixed with it, like the washed butter best. 
‘‘The assertion is often made, and many people believe, that 
water washes out the flavor of the butter, but it only cleanses the 
butter of the buttermilk, sugar and milk acid which may adhere to 
it, just as clarifying sugar removes from it the foreign matters 
which modify its true flavor. The flavor of butter consists of fatty 
matters which do not combine with water at all, and cannot there¬ 
fore be washed away by it. 
