V 
ORCHARD PLANTING AND CULTURE. 503 
Set trees 20 feet both ways. They will protect each other 
from driving winds better than any arrangement of forest trees 
around the orchard. Let the tops grow as low as they will— 
within a foot or two of the ground, and as fast as the trees 
grow give up the ground to their exclusive use. It is 
a mistaken idea that we can raise a full crop of grain in an or¬ 
chard without hurting it. Many people plow up the fine roots 
of trees without knowing it. They should be very careful and 
let the plow run shallow near the trees. 
Set good three year old trees. In fact, the younger the bet¬ 
ter, provided the cultivator will see that no weeds, grain or tall 
corn shades or chokes them. 
Allow me to say a few words about root-grafting. People 
make a sort of a scape-goat of it, upon which they pile all the 
faults of careless cultivators, wet soils, cold climates, and tender 
varieties. The truth is, graft a good, hardy variety at the sur- 
I face of the ground, upon a whole vigorous root, and set it in a 
high, dry location, and you will get some fruit as well as from 
top-grafting. 
The varieties that have succeeded best with me upon high, 
dry and open prairie, are the following: 
APPLES. 
Yellow Harvest —Good, tree hardy, does not bear young. 
(Not the German Bough which is frequently sold for it,) 
Sweet June —Good, ripe first half September. Tree as 
hardy as a burr oak, and bears young. 
Hawley —Good, large, Sept. Tree very hardy, and an annu¬ 
al bearer. 
Red and Yellow Siberian Crab Apples —Sure every time, 
good for tarts and jellies. 
j Fall Winesap —Good; Nov. to Jan. Tree pretty hardy, 
rapid grower, bears young and profusely. 
Tallman Sweet —Best, Dec. to March. Tree hardy, vigor¬ 
ous grower, bears sparingly while young. 
