RAISING AND PLANTING OF EVERGREENS. 507 
Cultivate in seed-bed the second year ; unless the season is 
very dry, they will need no shading if the ground is worked 
deeply. They are transplanted to nursery rows two feet apart 
the second spring, shortening the tap root at the time. Give 
them plenty of room in the row to develop the lower branches. 
In taking up plants for sale the two succeeding seasons, it is 
best to thin them in the rows by removing each alternate plant. 
When three years in nursery, remove each alternate row and 
root-prune the ones left, with Harkness’ Tree Digger, (an in¬ 
valuable implement for Nurserymen.) 
For ordinary screens of moderate height, I prefer the Red 
Cedar to any other Evergreen, for our soil and climate. 
Foreign varieties of Evergreens, I prefer to import at two 
years from the seed, and procure native varieties from the for¬ 
ests of Michigan and New York. Care is exercised in select¬ 
ing them from open exposures, as they are much better supplied 
with roots than when grown in the shade. The roots must not 
be allowed to dry in the least, whilst out of the ground. Pack 
the roots in damp moss, keep the tops dry. It is a good plan 
to make holes in the boxes so as to ventilate the tops. 
Plant and shade in beds similar to those reccommended for 
growing Red Cedar from seed. Transplant to nursery rows 
the following spring. The Pine and Juniper families are ad¬ 
mirably adapted to dry soils ; Spruces and Arbor Vitae to moist 
ones. 
For a screen to orchards, buildings and stock-yards, I prefer 
the Norway Spruce. 
In preparing the ground for planting, always plow deep ; 
large trees are less checked in their growth if removed in win¬ 
ter, with a ball of frozen earth; though with care in securing 
all the roots, have had ten foot trees succeed finely in April, 
without any dirt adhering to roots. From the time of break¬ 
ing up in winter until buds are expanded, it is a safe time to 
remove Evergreens, but I prefer to do it early, as when buds 
are much swollen they are very easily broken off, and the sym- 
etry of the tree injured. I have also had good success when 
