THEOUGH CONTINENTAL EUEOPB. 
389 
Wurtemburg, with its magnificent scenery, its prosperous industry, its 
many excellent institutions of learning and its nearly two millions of intelli¬ 
gent and industrious people, interested me much and would have detained 
me longer had the extent, of my plans and my limit of time permitted. 
Crossing the Danube, I entered Bavaria; stopping first at the ancient and 
once-renownd city of Augsberg to visit its industrial school, then made my 
way to Munich, the capital; to which now distinguished centre of art, litera¬ 
ture and science I was attracted chiefly by the great university and the 
polytechnic school, as well as by the agricultural school of Weienstephan, 
near Freising, some twenty miles to the northward. Here I spent nearly a 
week, and but for the necessity to push on, might have been there still; for, 
take it all in all—its institutions of learning, its vast royal library, its world- 
famed galleries of pictures and sculpture, its multitude of workshops, and its 
natural surroundings—Munich is so charming a place that one needs some 
unyielding necessity to draw him from the midst of its enchantments. Nor 
are these all ; the great men who dwell here have a mighty holding power 
upon one devoted to a mission like mine. Baron Liebig resides here, being 
a professor in the university, director of the laboratory and the head of the 
academy of sciences. This is also the home of the great German master, 
Kaulbach, whose fame as an artist is already world-wide, as well as of very 
many other men equally distinguished in the various departments of learning 
and art. 
The agriculture of Bavaria is backward, reminding me of that of Baden, 
as shown by the crops, the rude implements in use, and the habits of the 
peasant population. Cows are frequently seen doing the work of oxen and 
horses on the road and iu the field, and in one instance I saw a stalwart man 
holding an antiquated plow drawn by the joint efforts of a cow and a woman ! 
The religion of Bavaria is intensely Catholic, though Protestants, and even 
Jews, enjoy some degree of toleration. In the market places, on the street 
corners, and even in the bar-rooms, one meets with effiigies of Christ and the 
Holy Virgin and numbers of bended worshippers. 
From Munich I made a rapid dash westward and south-westward into 
Switzerland, crossing the Boden See, (Lake Constance) at Lindau and di¬ 
recting my way through the rich and blooming cantons of Thurgau and 
Zurich, to the beautiful eity of Zurich. Having devoted two or three days 
to the federal polytechnic school, the most magnificent and complete in its 
equipments and appointments, material and educational, of any of the great 
schools of this class in the world, and made the acquaintance of many of the 
more than thirty professors, who are devoted to the progress of scientific and 
technical education, I went, by steamer down Lake Zurich to Rappersweil; 
thence by rail up the valleys of the Linth and the upper Rhine to Chur, in 
the midst of the Rhetian Alps, and thence on foot and alone some YO miles 
across the Alps by the way of the Splugen Pass and the awful Via Mala, to 
Chiavenna, in Italy. The scenery along this way is the most savagely grand 
and sublime to be found in the Alps, transcending anything of which I had 
