THE CULTHEE OF SMALL FEUITS. 
569 
fruits were fully carried out by the new beginners, they would not only be¬ 
come discouraged themselves, but would naturally discourage others from 
going into it. 
After over fifteen years’ experience in growing fruits, I can say to all per¬ 
sons, that it is no more trouble to grow grapes, strawberries, rasberries, 
blackberries, &c., than Indian corn and cabbage. For most of fruits, there 
is more danger of high manuring than too little. This is especially the case 
with grapes. An amateur neighbor of mine, who has as fine an assortment of 
grapes as any need desire, has been in the habit of high manuring and has 
never succeeded in getting as fine crops of fruit, as since his change to high 
manuring; and what is more noticeable, since his change in this respect he 
has no mildew on his fruit. I have observed that grapes grown on ordinary 
soil, are less liable to rot and mildew, than those which are forced into an 
unnatural growth, by high stimulating fertilizers. The best flavored Con¬ 
cords or Isabellas I ever saw, and which were free from mildew or' rot, were 
grown on an inferior, light, sandy soil. My advice is, to get the ground in 
about the condition required to grow good crops of corn, and my word for it 
no disappointment will follow. 
In setting strawberries for garden culture, set the plants one foot apart; 
keep clean and as they commence to throw out runners, train them along the 
rows. By fall they will form thick matted rows, about one foot in width. 
Mulch these lightly with any barnyard litter, or saw dust or tan bark. The 
next spring, work among them with a fork-hoe, and prick out all weeds. Im¬ 
mediately after they are through fruiting, spade the ground between the 
rows, spading under all the vines except a strip three or four inches wide. 
Scatter among these a liberal supply of rotted manure after making the 
ground loose among them with the fork-hoe and picking out all weeds. 
Keep clean and take the same care as during the previous year. Many 
growers recommend the “ hill ” system. My objections to it, are that they 
are apt to be killed out by “cut worms,” and in many cases, with our most 
popular sort, (the Wilson’s Albany,) the vines so exhaust themselves in bear¬ 
ing, that they are apt to be thrown out, or “ heave ” through the winter, on 
account of not forming new roots enough to sustain them, and when a plant 
is thus destroyed a vacancy is left; while, if they were allowed to form thick 
matted rows, they would be better protected from being thrown out, and 
if a few were destroyed it does not leave an entire vacancy in the row; 
while at the same time new plants fill up the rows every year, and these from 
such strong fibrous roots, that they are sure proof against our changeable 
winters, and certain to bear, as the new roots give more nourishment than 
an old exhausted plant. Some growers allow the vines to cover the ground. 
My objection to this method is, that they cannot be properly cultivated and 
consequently suffer from the least drought. I have found after practical ex¬ 
perience that when vines are thoroughly cultivated in the spring and well 
worked with the fork-hoe, they do not suffer in comparison fron the drought, 
with those which are not so cultivated, while those which were allowed to 
