FRUIT-GROWERS’ REPORT. 
373 
Thursday—Evening Session, 
pears. 
Atwood—Would graft into pear stock; very easy to make 
them grow in thorn stock, but short lived; will take root from 
scions; recommend standard trees for general culture. 
Cooper—One very essential thing in pear growing is to pinch 
them back. 
Atwood—Would pinch them back three times during the 
summer. By so doing you throw out fruit spurs, and make 
dwarf trees. Prefer trenched ground. By summer pinching, 
the wood hardens, and is better prepared for winter; pinch 
when I think shoot has grown far enough. The Flemish 
Beauty, Bloodgood and White Doyenne have done the best 
with me. Do not prune them any with a knife; generally 
mulch them winter and summer; would prefer a clay soil, let 
the clay predominate; start the limbs as low as I can get 
them to the ground. 
Brayton—Had a varied experience with pears; my first was 
on thorn and mountain ash; they grew well and blossomed, 
but no pears. I found Angers Quince stock to be good to bud 
into, and the one most in use; those that have succeeded best 
with me on the Quince stock are Dearborn, Bloodgood, Tyson, 
Bartlett, Doyenne, and Glout Morceau. My experience with 
the dwarfs is, that unless they are planted on very fine soil, 
they should invariably be mulched in the winter; or even in 
summer and winter, as on that depends their success. Dwarf 
Pears as a rule are short lived. The sorts which succeed best 
with me on pear stocks are Tyson, Onondaga, White Doyenne, 
Belle Lucrative, Winter Nellis and Beurre Diel. If I were con¬ 
fined to but one sort, it would be Flemish Beauty; find it where 
you will, it is always good. 
Plumb—Thinks too deep planting a fruitful source of death t© 
the dwarf pear. Would plant a tree as an intelligent farmer 
would plant his grain; put its roots near the surface in the 
warm soil, within reach of the dews. Most of the feeding 
roots of a tree are within two or three inches of the surface; 
