FRUIT-GROWERS’ REPORT. 
377 
sized limbs and remove a strip of bark, one-fourth to one-half 
inch wide; do this in July or August. Fruit buds will be 
formed. The wound will usually grow over the following 
season. 
In answer to question by Hon. Armine Picket, of Green 
Lake County: 
When to prune? Plumb—Any time and all the time; do 
it by littles, but do it mostly with thumb and finger. Best 
time, just before mid-summer, when trees are growing very 
fast; cuts will then heal over very soon; cover all large 
wounds with hot wax. Too severe pruning with knife pro¬ 
duces suckers. 
Mr. Pitts—Been in the State four years. From others, ex¬ 
perience not much encouraged; have planted seeds and got 
some very fine trees. A neighbor has several hundred trees 
which look well; raises a mound in the fall about them to keep 
back the frost in spring. Another neighbor planted ten Rhode 
Island Greenings—two top-worked and eight root-grafted. 
The first two are healthy. My observation is, that tender 
sorts do best worked in that way. 
Newton—Once worked 3000 Rhode Island Greenings, would 
sell them for as many cents; twenty other sorts that are 
worthless, not fit to keep or to give away. Some sorts do as 
well root-grafted as top-worked. Grew about one and a half 
bushels of pears, one of them measured ten and five-eighths 
inches in circumference; bought it for the Bartlett, don’t think 
it is, but presume nurserymen never lie. Golden Russet, Seek- 
no-further, Northern Spy and Talman Sweet always succeed. 
Quiner—Rhode Island Greening should never be worked in 
the root, but top-worked. Many sorts will succeed in root as 
well as top, and vice versa. 
Mr.-Have never lost a tree grafted in the top; use 
seedlings four years old; all do well. 
Mr. Flint—Has worked trees both ways, finds no difference. 
A tree that will not stand working in the root, will not if worked 
in the top; does not necessarily follow that a hardy tree is made 
tender by grafting it into a root. If one will but work such 
