FRUIT-GROWERS’ REPORT. 
433 
tion through the season. All these things being faithfully 
carried out, I think the “two more” will surely be mine. 
Evergreen seedlings should always remain two years in the 
seed bed, and I have found a good covering of leaves to be 
the best winter protection. Oak leaves are preferable, because 
they do not decay easily, and lie light and loose for a long 
time. 
People study mathematics as discipline for the mind; if any 
friend needs discipline for the patience , we would heartily rec¬ 
ommend him to grow evergreens from seed. Our “ try again ” 
bump is increasing under the treatment from year to year. 
It seems almost a waste of time to grow our native ever¬ 
greens from seed when they are so readily procured from our 
northern forests. My usual treatment of forest evergreens is 
to “bed them in” quite thick in rather moist black soil, where 
they remain two years, then transplant to nursery rows, in any 
well prepared soil, mulching them deeply, and treating the 
root as carefully as possible. The best material for mulching 
is saw dust or chip dirt. The best manure I can give them is 
thoroughly decomposed swamp muck. Moving the trees every 
other spring is the surest way to give good roots. Thoroughly 
pulverized deep soil , is as necessary for them as for other plants. 
EVERGREENS FROM SEED. 
BY O. S. WILLEY, VINE HILL NURSERIES, MADISON, WIS. 
To be successful with these embryo trees requires patient 
toil, constant watching, and no small allowance of knowledge 
pertaining to vegetable physiology; “ close and constant atten¬ 
tion’’ must be the motto; nor will it end with a day or week’s labor, 
but must be kept up through months in the seed bed, and years 
in the nursery row, ere the plant or young tree is prepared for 
the garden or lawn. To be successful with evergreens from 
seed, several items must be observed, viz: a suitable frame, 
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