In cold countries bulbs that remain in the ground over winter may be 
planted somewhat deeper and ground mulched in fall. 
Small bulbs like Zephyranthes and Ranunculus need more shallow plant¬ 
ing, 1" to 3" depth. Exceptions to the general rule are noted in this catalog 
in culture directions. 
Soil. Rich sandy loam is the best garden soil. But heavier soils are very 
good when much humus has been incorporated. In heavy soils the drainage 
may be poor and in that case they will be much improved by spading to a depth 
of two feet or even more. In the lower foot of soil include lots of leaves and 
finely broken sticks preferably half rotted. In the top soil thoroughly incorp¬ 
orate old well rotted barnyard manure (but not much poultry manure) or leaf 
mold. Peat is also good but some American peat is full of alkali so use 
imported. Soil containing 25% to 40% humus will not likely have too much. 
Turn all manure, leaves, weeds etc. under long enough before planting to 
allow them to rot. 
Fertilizers. Nature puts into the soil the elements needed. Usually the 
discrete use of fertilizers improve on nature. But beware. Chemical fertilizers 
are dangerous. Nearly all leave a harmful alkaline residue. Superphosphate 
does not. We use a handful to 3 or 4 feet of row but it} is good only for acid 
loving plants. In using any fertilizer, Blood, Tankage, Superphos etc. experi¬ 
ment first with a very little on a few plants. If tips of leaves turn brown you 
have crippled the plant. Bone meal is good for many bulbs and can be mixed 
with soil before planting or scattered in furrows, before planting or during 
any period of growth. Use handful to 3 ft. 
The best fertilizer is well rotted manure. Manure having odor of ammonia 
(an alkali) may destroy some plants. A top dressing around Crinums or 
Hippeastrums and some others when growing vigorously usually stimulates 
more vigor. Experiment on one first. Thoroughly rotted manure is best. Do 
not use even this on Iris except experimentally. 
Peat is useful to mix liberally with soil for acid loving plants. 
Mulch or top dressing of rotted manure, leaf mold or peat is very good and 
lessens labor of cultivating. 
Potting. Be sure drainage is perfect. Place piece of broken pot over 
hole. Over that some small gravel. Soil may be % leaf mold or peat; fine 
sifted sand; % rich garden loam. Use peat for acid loving plants. For bulbs 
or plants needing a neutral soil add a little ground limestone and less peat or 
none. Pot may be 3 or 4 times diam. of bulb. Small pots result in crowding 
the roots and forcing bloom. Large pots favor growth and increase of bulbs. 
When first potted see that soil is moist. Place in dark or shade. Darkness 
encourages root growth. It is very important that roots are well started for 
a bulb to make good flowers. Light encourages top growth. If this is made 
without roots the bulb suffers and gives an inferior flower. Bring to full light 
gradually only when growth is well started. Give little water until growing 
well. Some bulbs rot if given much water before they are rooted and growing. 
Some are contrary and may not bloom if you try to hurry them. A flower 
bud may preceed or accompany leaves. 
ARRANGEMENT OF CATALOG 
Most catalogs are arranged alphabetically. Some are arranged to fit 
(more or less) the space allowed by the illustrations. A perfect alphabetic 
arrangement makes it very easy to find any desired item but does not allow the 
most logical grouping of plants. 
Recently we have been working toward a grouping of bulbs offered accord¬ 
ing to the Orders or Families to which they belong. In an approximate manner 
we also try to place together the genera more closely related. Thus under the 
Iridaceae, Iris and Morea are close relatives and Gladioli, Watsonias, Mont- 
bretias, Ixias etc. are close. This groping according to botanical relationship 
will be found useful in many ways. 
Another important item about this catalog is that complete culture 
directions is included herein for every bulb listed. Sometimes this information 
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