is given for a group, sometimes for the individual bulb. 
We do not send out culture information with the bulbs. It is here in the 
catalog. 
Illustrations, are not given because the great expense would add too much 
to the cost of this catalog and therefore the prices. A beautifully illustrated 
catalog certainly helps to sell but often leads to future disappointment. We 
are often told that we make up for lack of illustrations. 
Bulb List for Spring 193 9 
AMARYLLIDACEAE 
The Amaryllis family includes a very large proportion of our finest bulbs. 
Besides those listed below it includes Narcissus or Daffodils which are included 
in our fall catalogs. 
THE AMERICAN AMARYLLIS SOCIETY is one of the most active of 
plant specialty groups. It is international, members all over the world. They 
are succeeding in promoting the popularity of Amaryllids by giving several 
shows each year in various parts of U. S. and by publishing each year a book 
“Herbertia,” beautifully illustrated and full of information about species, 
culture methods, etc. The 1938 edition contains 218 pages rich in illustrations 
and information. Each member receives it free until edition is exhausted. 
If preferred you may have 193 9 book which will be published next fall. The 
present edition will be soon exhausted so join early. Send me $2.00 for 
membership, or $4.00 for 1938 and 1939 books. I am not an official but I 
like to sponsor the applications of my friends. 
HOW TO GROW AMARYLLIS 
In the south, from California to Florida most Amaryllids are hardy and 
are usually grown in the garden. But even here we enjoy potted plants and 
some Amaryllids, especially Hippeastrums and Clivias, are ideal for the purpose. 
In colder sections, only a few of the Amaryllids listed here are hardy and 
these are noted with the description. But most of them do well in pots. 
Several of them can be lifted in the fall and stored like Glads. So the northern 
gardens need not lack the beauty of this plant family. 
Bulbs that may be lifted in late fall and stored includes most Crinums, 
all Ismenes, and probably all Zephyranthes. 
It is better to leave them growing in the garden as late in fall as possible 
and dig as soon as the first frosts kill the foliage. Some advise to preserve the 
large fleshy roots and protect these over winter by heeling in dry sand. Bulbs 
should be dry before storing. In the south leave them in the ground perman¬ 
ently, only lifting to divide when they become too crowded. 
In the north they may be planted outside very early as they need a long 
seaspn and moderate frost will not hurt most of them. Mulch the ground to 
prevent possible freezing. 
In potting Amaryllids, observe directions for potting given elsewhere in 
this catalog. 
A few have found difficulty in getting flowers from Hippeastrums (or 
Amaryllis) after the first year. That is wholly the fault of incorrect handling 
as they are most dependable if treated right. Encourage luxuriant growth thru 
entire growing season. In the fall, from September to November reduce 
amount of water. Let them become so dry that leaves dry up. A rest of 3 
or even 4 months will make them ready to go when they have the chance. 
Bulbs left in pots will usually show a bud when ready to grow. Be sure soil 
is neutral. If not add a little ground limestone. Give them a sunny window 
in early spring. After flowering and when weather is quite warm outside they 
may be lifted with ball of soil undisturbed and planted outside in partial shade 
(about 65% sun). 
Clivias must have full shade. We grow ours in a lath house with laths 
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