Daydream on pillar 
Besides Australian Roses, there are other well-known 
varieties which can be grown as Pillars: Kaiserin Aug¬ 
uste Viktoria, Frau Karl Druschki, Mme. Lambard, 
Paul’s Scarlet Climber, Cherokee. Indeed, almost any 
of the climbers or vigorous bush sorts may be readily 
adapted. 
AUSTRALIAN ROSES 
These fine Roses originated on the opposite side of the globe and are in a 
class by themselves. They are reasonably hardy in northern gardens but really 
belong in the South where they have an opportunity to develop. 
They have attractive foliage which is unusually free from disease, and their 
large flowers are freely produced. There are vigorous climbers among them, 
others not so rampant make fine pillars, while Sunny South and Sweet Seventeen 
are splendid large bushes. 
There is a clean freshness in the appearance of the blooms not found in 
ordinary Roses, and we want all of our friends to know these lovely immigrants. 
We are certain that if you see them once you will love them. 
See illustration of a pillar of Daydream at left. 
Australian Roses, $1 each, regardless of number ordered 
Amy Johnson. HT. Named for the famous flier. A vigorous grower with 
good foliage and large, sweetly scented flowers of a lovely shade of pink. 
Countess of Stradbroke. CHT. (Climber.) Magnificent, deep velvety crim¬ 
son. Bud and flower large, lasting, moderately fragrant. Continuous bloom¬ 
ing habit. 
Daydream. CHT. (Climber or Pillar.) Blush-pink frilled petals. 
Flying Colours. HG. (Climber.) Brilliant red blooms of startling vividness. 
Harbinger. HG. (Climber.) Clear, soft pink. Beautiful effect. 
Kitty Kininmonth. HG. (Climber.) A large, loose-flowered, slightly fra¬ 
grant, glowing pink Rose, almost fadeless, with many golden stamens. 
Growth very vigorous and climbing. 
Lorraine Lee. HG. (Bush.) A shrubby plant with orange-pink flowers. 
Everblooming. 
Milkmaid. HN. (Climber.) Small, creamy white flowers, tinted fawn. 
Mrs. Hugh Dettman. HT. (Pillar.) This is a Rose which keeps its legs 
covered, that is, it does not show bare stems for the first 2 to 3 feet from the 
ground. Large flowers of a lovely shade of pink. 
Mrs. Norman Watson. HT. (Pillar.) A Rose of vigorous growth and extraor¬ 
dinary foliage, with a very large flower of an unusually brilliant pink. 
Mrs. Philip Russell. HT. (Pillar.) One of the most distinctive of the Aus¬ 
tralians. Deep red, with black shading. Medium-sized flowers, semi-double, 
somewhat fragrant. Unusually fine foliage. 
Nora Cuningham. CHT. (Pillar.) Large, semi-double flowers of clear pink. 
Queen of Hearts. CHT. (Climber.) Lovely, radiant pink variety. 
Scorcher. CHT. (Pillar.) Stunning flowers of gorgeous scarlet. 
Sunday Best. CHP. (Climber.) Mammoth, saucer-shaped, red flowers with 
white centers. 
Sunny South. HT. (Bush.) Blooms constantly and profusely, and produces 
a most pleasing effect if flowers are not cut. Buds and blooms of good size, 
semi-double, pink, with yellow toward center. 
Sweet Seventeen. HP. (Bush.) Bud ovoid and of fair size; flower medium 
size, semi-double (almost single, like Cherokee), lasting, fragrant, rich light 
pink, borne on short stem. Foliage light green, crinkled. Rather dwarf grower 
and beautiful if left in the garden. Free bloomer. Limited supply. 
GENERAL ROSE 
PLANTING ROSES 
The planting season in the South is from December 1, or as soon as 
the plants are dormant, through the winter and spring months to 
about April 15. When the plants are received, it is well to set them in 
buckets of water overnight, if they have been delayed in transit, or 
bury them completely for a day or two in moist soil. They are already 
pruned for planting, but any broken roots should be trimmed off. Our 
grafted plants should be set same depth as grown, indicated by soil- 
marks. 
Space them 2 to 2J4 feet apart. Spread the roots out carefully, fill 
in with good soil mixed with bonemeal, pack the earth tight about 
the roots, leave a basin, and water well. 
SOILS and PREPARATION 
Soils in the South are variable, perhaps in some districts more so 
than in other parts of the country; hence it is difficult to lay down 
general rules for soil-preparation. Locations under the shade of trees, 
or where the ground is filled with tree-roots, should be avoided. Wet 
soils should be drained. The Rose delights in a moist soil, but stand¬ 
ing water or a soil completely filled with water for a period of time is 
certain to prove harmful. Clay lands need little preparation, except to 
enrich them and make them less compact and more friable. The ad¬ 
dition of 2 to 3 inches of peat moss, good muck, or woods-mold will 
help greatly. These can be spread over the surface and spaded in. 
Stable manure, well rotted, is also good. Sandy soils can be improved 
by adding clay wherever possible and with it peat moss, woods-mold, 
or stable manure. Closely planted beds may be prepared by digging 
out 15 inches deep, and filling in with 4 to 6 inches of good clay and 
finishing off with 9 inches of a well-mixed soil, composed of garden 
soil or woods-mold, stable manure, and one to two pounds of bonemeal 
for each plant. It is best to make up the beds two to three weeks 
before planting. 
FERTILIZING and CARE 
Thorough preparation of the soil before planting will take care of 
the fertilizing problem for some time, but as Roses are gross feeders, it 
is necessary to keep them supplied with an abundance of plant-food. 
INFORMATION 
Stable manure may be used, liberally scattered on the surface as a 
mulch, and good, well-balanced commercial fertilizer may also be used 
from time to time. A mulch of 3 to 4 inches of leaves or partly rotted 
leaves and leaf-mold is excellent during the summer. In dry weather 
water freely. 
Tea Roses do not require very severe pruning. Prune in September 
and October for fall and winter bloom; in late February and March 
for the spring crop of flowers. Thin out small and poorly developed 
wood. Cut Hybrid Perpetuals severely, leaving only 3 to 4 inches of 
the old canes. Climbers should be pruned sparingly. 
Shoots sometimes come up from the stock below the graft union 
and take the food-supply to such an extent that they destroy the Rose 
top. The leaves on these shoots generally have seven leaflets and are 
quite different in appearance. They should be removed by digging 
down to the point of union with the stem and cutting them off 
smooth and clean. 
PESTS and DISEASES 
All common Rose diseases and insects can be controlled with Tri- 
ogen, which is put out by Rose Manufacturing Co., Philadelphia, Pa. 
We have found it very effective if used according to directions. Tri- 
ogen was o.ficially adopted for the exclusive protection of the garden 
of 6000 Roses at the Century of Progress, Chicago World’s Fair. 
Fungtrogen is another preparation made by the same company, pri¬ 
marily for black-spot, and may be profitably used where this is the 
only condition to be combated. 
Black-spot appears as irregular dark areas on leaves and stems. 
Affected leaves turn yellow and drop off. 
Massey Dust, sometimes called Combination Dust or “9—1—1,” can 
also be used for general clean-up if preferred. Whether spray or dust 
is used, be sure to reach the underside of leaves as well as top. Be¬ 
cause this is easier to do with a spray, many growers prefer it. 
Important. Both dusts and sprays should be applied before rains 
in so far as possible if maximum results are to be obtained. Dusting 
should be done in early morning or evening when the air is most 
likely to be still. 
Prevention of Rose-Troubles is Better Than Cure. Protect 
the bush before disease reaches it! 
32 
GLEN SAINT MARY NURSERIES CO., Glen Saint Mary, Florida 
