HOW 
Roses need sunshine, but need not be exposed to 
the sun all day. Half a day of morning or afternoon 
sunshine is sufficient. 
To prepare the beds, remove one spade-depth of 
topsoil and pile it to one side. Make the hole deep 
and wide enough to accommodate the roots naturally. 
Then remove a second spade-depth. This is “subsoil,” 
to be taken away. Now you have a trench 18 inches 
deep. Rose roots seldom go deeper. 
Now loosen dirt at bottom of trench with a spad- 
ing-fork. Shovel in the topsoil, mixed with a liberal 
amount of old manure. Carry the Rose plants to the 
trench in a bucket of water. Prune the roots by 
shortening the long ones and cutting the ends off the 
others. Put the plants in the hole. Work fine soi 1 
between the roots. Fill the hole a little at a time. 
Pack the soil hard on the roots. 
When the hole is three-quarters full, press the soil 
WATERING. Roses like plenty of water. Flood the beds once 
a week by placing the hose on the bed and letting it run slowly so 
that water may reach deep to the roots. Avoid wetting the foliage, 
especially in the evening. 
SPENT BLOOMS should be removed, cutting the stem above 
the first complete set of five leaves. If long-stemmed blooms are 
desired for cutting, remove old flowers so that two sets of leaves 
remain on the stalk. The next crop of blooms will spring from 
these eyes. 
FERTILIZERS. No fertilizer of any nature should be applied 
the first year of planting. Roots are not yet in condition to consume 
it, and it may do a great deal of harm to young fibrous roots which 
have to be formed after transplanting. Later a mixed or “complete” 
fertilizer, as sold under various trade-marks, and equivalent to 
1 part nitrogen, 2 or 3 parts phosphoric acid, and 1 or 2 parts of 
potash, is preferable to any single one of these products. Apply 
very lightly (a teaspoonful per plant) but often, and water liberally 
after each application. 
PRUNING everblooming climbers (Blaze, New Dawn, etc.) 
should not be done during the growing season because remontance 
(subsequent blooming) comes out of the first top eye under the 
previous cluster of blooms. Spent blooms may be pinched off but 
down hard with your heels. Then pour in plenty of 
water. When water has disappeared, fill with good 
garden soil to normal level. Do not pack any more. 
When planting in the spring, prune tops of plants 
at about 4 to 8 inches above soil-level. Be sure to 
leave two to three “eyes” above ground-level. This 
is extremely important. See marginal sketch. 
WRONG RIGHT 
HINTS 
the flower-bearing stems must not be shortened or it will stop 
reblooming. 
CULTIVATE frequently around Rose-plants. Do not allow the 
soil to bake and become hard at any time. Remember that roots 
breathe, and cultivation permits the air to reach the roots. With¬ 
out cultivation plants will remain at a standstill. 
FOLIAGE TROUBLE. Newer Roses are not as subject to dis¬ 
eases as older varieties; they are much more resistant and many are 
almost immune. However, atmospheric conditions are more favor¬ 
able some years than others, and an occasional dusting or spraying 
with accepted formulas would act as a preventative. 
WINTERING ROSES. After the first good heavy frost, bundle 
the branches together, cut them back to about 18 to 20 inches, 
mound earth around the plants up to 6 to 8 inches, or higher if 
practical, spread manure in the hollows between plants. Later on, 
when the ground is frozen, add a covering of leaves, straw, salt hay 
or cornstalks to keep the ground frozen and as a protection against 
sun and wind. In the spring, remove covering a little at a time, 
first straw or leaves, then the coarse part of the manure, and finally 
level the soil when danger of hard spring frosts is past. In Cali¬ 
fornia and the South, this type of winter protection is, of course, 
not necessary. 
CULTURAL 
A Hybrid Tea 
Rose pruned bigb 
in spring. 
Tbe result of bigb 
pruning. Bare legs- 
tall growth. 
