KAYLOR NURSERIES, BLAIN,E, WASH. 
open on a well proportioned stem it has 
won its fair share of blue ribbons at 
home and abroad. Not so tall is John 
Virgil, perhaps the closest to a royal 
purple in color. The stem is slender and 
none too strong and the fourteen above¬ 
medium size open florets sometimes pull 
the flowerhead over. Not much taper to 
the spike, it is more a solid column of 
color that stops every visitor. 
LAVENDERS 
As purple fades into lavender we pass 
mauve and one of the best in this color 
is Mauve Magic, fairly tall, reliable, with 
p'enty open, its color is a little closer to 
red than blue. Gertrude Swenson, has 
more blue than red and is generous in the 
number open. Just a bit headachy but a 
beauty. There is no headache in Bertie 
Snow with its tall spikes of pinkish-lav¬ 
ender, ten or more wide open florets of 
fine quality. At the top, and a true lav¬ 
ender, is Minuet. It has been sold by the 
hundreds of thousands and is still going 
strong. Queen of Bremen is tops in the 
small flowered lavenders, its delicate 
coloring, slender stems and general ex¬ 
cellence making it a good bouquet and 
corsage flower. 
SMOKIES 
When introduced, some ten years ago, 
Mother Machree was the must have of 
every glad grower in the world. It is 
just as beautiful today and its tall smoky- 
lavender beauty is found in every show. 
Give it plenty of water or it will take on 
too much of a reddish tone. More wide 
open is Marmora which adds a large red¬ 
dish throat blotch. A massive spike. 
Roi Albert has smoky-lavender outer 
petals with a large copper-bronze throat 
in which are traces of red. Robert 
Brownlee is really a golden yellow with 
such a heavy overlay of purple that it 
seems to be a purple-brown. Medium 
size with six open, a good performer and 
a novelty most folks greatly admire be¬ 
cause of its being distinctive and unlike 
any other glad in our fields. Jalna, large 
smoky-salmon is new. 
We have a considerable number of 
the newer varieties under trial not listed 
here. Will be pleased to have our custom¬ 
ers write regarding those in which they 
may be interested. Always glad to be 
helpful. That’s the reason for the fore¬ 
going description which has required a 
great deal more study and work than ap¬ 
pears on the surface. We hope it will 
be helpful. 
Treating For Disease 
During the past dozen years we have 
carried on many experiments in an effort 
to prevent rather than cure, bulb diseas¬ 
es. All our Glad breeding has been 
directed toward producing new varieties 
that would be disease resistant. At the 
same time we have endeavored to im¬ 
prove methods of handling varieties now 
on the market. The result of this work 
is now offered for your consideration. 
As soon as dug our bulbs are washed 
—and please remember great care must 
be taken at all times to prevent bruising 
or other damage to the tender green 
bulbs. For washing we use big tubs 
dumping the bulbs into them after they 
have been half filled with water. Suf¬ 
ficient water is added to completely cov¬ 
er the bulbs which are then stirred with 
a bent tined fork or potatoe digger. With 
this they are also lifted into screen bot¬ 
tomed dip tank trays. These hold about 
a bushel and are made so that several 
of them can be olaced in a deep tank 
containing the treating solution. After 
rinsing with clean water, the trays are 
placed in the tank. 
For the harvest time treatment we 
use a lime-sulphur solution made a little 
stronger than would be used for summer 
spraying of fruit trees. This is not a 
very definitie formula, but because of the 
varrying strength of lime-sulphur as pur¬ 
chased from the stores or as made at 
home, it is the best we can do. Follow 
the directions given by the manufacturer 
or the writer of the booklet on the home 
making of the spray. The bulbs are held 
in the solution for about three hours, if 
young stock, or four four hours if grown 
from large bulbs. The dip trays are lift¬ 
ed and as soon as surplus solution has 
drained off, the bulbs are placed in reg¬ 
ular screen bottom curing trays. If pos¬ 
sible they should be given one day in the 
sunlight, but may be taken to the storage 
shed. Drying should be hurried as much 
as possible without applying too much 
heat. When dry the bulbs are handled 
as in any other method of curing. 
Experience shows that bulbs handled 
this way are far less liable to develop 
storage rots, Scab lisions are killed, and 
the fact that we have never had a thrips 
in our fields is believed to be due to this 
fall treating. Spring treating will not be 
necessary, but if one has bulbs that have 
pot been treated, or to make “assurance 
doubly sure’’ they may be given the lye 
or Bichloride of Mercury treatment at 
planting time. Lye is used at the rate 
of one ounce of concentrated crystals to 
five quarts of water for eight to ten 
hours. Mercury one ounce to seven gal¬ 
lons of water for eight to twelve hours. 
The latter should be held at a temper¬ 
ature of not less than 60 degrees. Both 
lime-sulphur and lye treated bulblets will 
germinate quicker, grow faster and pro¬ 
duce larger bulbs than will those treat¬ 
ed with mercury. 
