PLANTING and CARE o£ TREES and SHRUBS 
HOW TO PLANT B&B TREES 
Dig a ROUND HOLE A FEW^ INCHES 'WIDER than the ball itself* For heavy or poorly drained 
land) set the hall ^^X^ITH ITS SHOU^LDERS level or from one to two inches above the level of the land* 
For hght) sandy soil^ the hall should be about two inches below the level of the land* If the bottom of 
the hole is hard and dry, fill with water once or twice and let it soak away* 
THEN SET THE BALL IN THE HOLE. Do not use the LOOSE DIRT that is taken from the 
hole as BACK-FILL. Instead, start spading the OUTER ^<7ALLS of the hole toward the hall, about one 
foot deep* Keep spading around until the ground is broken two or four feet from the ball (according 
to the size of the hall^. Then press firmly TO'^^ARD the hall, using THE FEET or a heavy *'tamp.^^ 
AFTER PLANTING PRECAUTIONS; Next hill the dirt up around THE STEM of the plant 
four to eight inches high and as FAR OUT AS THE BALL itself. Then at the outer edge of the spaded 
area, using the dirt taken from the hole, MAKE A RIM from four to six inches high TO FORM A 
BASIN, to hold LOTS OF \)C^ATER to soak down under the hall. Leave the basin for months after 
planting for watering purposes. 
HOW TO WATER TREES AND SHRUBS 
To water, push the end of the hose down beside the ball and let water run until the basin is full. 
This will fill all air spaces. Repeat every week if needed to keep soil moistened. Mulch with about a 
bushel or more of rough stable manure, leaves . or lawn clippings. 
HOW TO PLANT NB (BARE-ROOT) TREES 
All NB Trees lose a part of their roots in transplanting. To offset the root loss, the branches should 
be pruned back half-way or more as soon as planted. To plant NB Nursery stock, a change in the color 
can be seen on the trunks where the surface level was before the tree was dug. New set trees should be 
planted about three INCHES DEEPER than they were IN THE NURSERY* Fill in fine soil among the 
roots, placing the roots carefully in the position they SHOULD GROW* Then follow the SAME IN¬ 
STRUCTIONS as for planting BS^B trees. 
CULTIVATION 
All types of Plant Materials require systematic cultivation. After Trees and Shrubs have been planted 
and THE BEDS are put in good condition by working and fertilizing, we recommend that THE SUR¬ 
FACE of the beds be stirred to a depth of TWO OR THREE INCHES unless a good MULCH IS 
MAINTAINED. Keep the hill around the trunk and THE RIM OR BASIN to hold water for the newly 
planted Trees and Shrubs. 
FERTILIZING 
Do NOT use any fertilizer in the hole when planting unless it is a small amount of BONE MEAL. 
In most soils, renewed strength in the way of dairy manure for plant food should be applied at least 
once a year, usually during the winter. The application of WELL-ROTTED and pulverized dairy ma¬ 
nure will make the beds more pliable and allow for cultivation of same MORE RAPIDLY and readily 
after much rainfall. 
Commercial fertilizers are satisfactory to use in small quantities. In the Spring and early Summer, 
use fertilizer with a heavy NITROGEN CONTENT. In late Summer and Fall, use fertilizer with heavy 
potash content. POTASH CAUSES the buds and branches to harden, and trees will bloom or fruit bet¬ 
ter. They will also stand more cold without injury. 
SPRAYING 
For all CHEWING OR FOLIAGE eating insects, a stomach poison must be applied to the foliage. 
Use ARSENATE OF LEAD. 
For such insects as Red Spider, or any of the smaller ones which draw the sap from the foliage, 
SULPHUR should be applied. 
For PLANT LICE AND APHIDS, nicotine sulphate should be applied* 
For MILDEW OR FUNGUS DISEASES, such as Black-spot, leaf blights, etc., use Bordeau Mixture. 
For SCALE INSECTS and WHITE FLY, spray with lime sulphur if trees are dormant. For Sum¬ 
mer spray or for Evergreens, use an oil EMULSION. 
PRUNING 
Evergreens, Fruit Trees and some Flowering Shrubs should be pruned during the DORMANT PE¬ 
RIOD. If you wish to retain the natural appearance of Trees and Shrubs, so they will not OUTGROW 
THEIR positions, they should be reshaped by cutting off the long ^’shoots” inside the natural edge of the 
specimen, and not cut uniform to make formal plants of them. Such pruning as this can be done AT 
ANY TIME of the year. 
Some Flowering Shrubs, which bloom only early in the Spring should be pruned after the blooming 
period to have blooms the following Spring, as these types produce their blooms on the past season’s 
growdi. 
For Roses, prune after danger of Frost (usually in March), however when you CUT FLOWERS, 
cut down to two or three buds, and it keeps the Bushes trimmed at all times of the year. 
