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P ROTECT A SHRUB BEFORE IT’S 
PLANTED. If you can, plant your shrubs 
right away, where they are to go. If this is not pos¬ 
sible, dig a trench for the shrubs which come to you 
with their roots bare. This protection is needed to 
prevent exposure of the roots to the sun, or drying 
out. 
The trenching is called “heeling in” and is nothing 
more than a temporary planting. The idea is to 
cover the roots and keep them moist. Sometimes 
shrubs will dry in transit, in which case you had best 
bury them, tops and all, for several days in moist 
earth. 
Dig the trench about two feet or more deep, and 
two feet wide. Put the shrubs in upright as if you 
were planting a hedge, but don’t crowd them. Shovel 
the soil loosely around them without packing, and 
then hose them thoroughly until there are puddles. 
This watering will make new fiber form. 
When you are ready to plant them in their final 
home, you’ll find that they lift out easily; but even 
so, handle them with care. 
DIGGING A SHRUB’S HOME. Dig the ground 
deeply, throwing the top soil into one pile, and the 
poorer undersoil into another. Dig a hole large 
enough, both in depth and diameter, 15 to 20 inches 
deep, to allow the shrub to spread its roots. With 
your fork, break up the bottom of the hole to allow 
good drainage. 
When you fill in, after setting the shrub in place, 
use as much of the topsoil as you can, more around 
the roots than at the surface. If your topsoil is heavy 
or poor, mix it with sand and peat moss. 
PLANTING BARE ROOT, BALLED AND 
BOX SHRUBS. The nursery will prepare different 
shrubs in different ways, according to the require¬ 
ments of their root systems. Some will come with 
bare roots, others with roots in a ball of earth and 
burlap wrapped around the ball, others in boxes. 
Before planting a bare-root shrub, prune back its 
roots, then set it upright in its hole with care, spread¬ 
ing the roots in all directions. After that you just 
shovel loose topsoil around the roots, fill up not 
quite to the top, and tamp. With practically all bare- 
rooted plants, prune back at least one-third of the 
top growth in order to encourage a strong root system. 
With a balled shrub, do not break the ball, but 
set the shrub, ball and all, down into its hole. Fill 
in loose earth around it, and when partly so filled, 
cut the string at the top, pull back the top of the 
burlap covering, and continue covering with soil. 
When a balled shrub is received from the nursery, 
immerse the ball in water so that the roots will have 
had a thorough soaking before the shrub is planted. 
CARE AFTER PLANTING. First, prune the 
branches, even heavy pruning is wise. This balances 
the loss of roots which always happens when a plant 
is dug up for transplanting. Also, after planting, 
water often. When the shrub is well established, 
give it some commercial plant food (the directions 
will be on the package). In general, for all shrub¬ 
bery, and trees, too, fill up the hole about three- 
quarters full of soil, using as much topsoil as you 
can. Flood with water until the water comes up to 
the top, let it settle; then flood again. 
WHEN TO TRANSPLANT. There are two 
kinds of shrubs—evergreen and deciduous. “Decidu¬ 
ous” means that the plant looses its leaves and grows 
them again. Evergreen stays green. Deciduous 
shrubs should be moved in the fall or before the 
leaves grow in the spring. Moving at other times 
requires extra care. Midwinter or fall are best along 
the Coast; the roots have more time to grow and get 
used to their new home before the summer heat 
comes. Inland, in the cold parts of the valleys and 
mountain regions, transplant only in the spring. 
You may experiment with fall transplanting there 
if you put a good mulch around the plants to keep 
the ground from freezing down to where the roots go. 
One way of doing this is to wrap the tops with burlap 
for protection from the winds in the winter. At the 
base put straw or manure, and soil on top of that. 
Jiouito-QnMu 
Ralel 
A rose garden should be placed in full sun and 
away from sides of buildings. Roses like best a heavy 
soil with good drainage. Before the roses arrive, 
prepare the ground by removing the first foot of soil 
and breaking up the remaining subsoil. Into this 
subsoil work plenty of compost and plant food and 
then replace the top soil. When the plants arrive, 
unless the rose has been pruned at the nursery, cut 
back. Cut off also any bruised or tangled roots and 
plant immediately. Dig a hole for each rose big 
enough to accommodate roots without twisting. Firm 
soil gently and water. Do not let plant food touch 
the roots. Never water roses by sprinkling—it causes 
mildew. During flowering and growing periods keep 
roots cool and damp. Water by flooding a depres¬ 
sion around the bush. Peat moss is an excellent 
mulch. Here on the Pacific Coast hybrid teas are 
pruned every year between December and February. 
First remove all the weak and scraggly growth from 
around the base. Shorten the remaining canes by 
removing about % of the previous year’s growth. 
Make cuts slanting, cutting about ^ inch above leaf 
buds. Use good sharp tools. 
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