28 
F. A. GUERNSEY & CO. 
Successful Planting, Pruning and Care 
We are often blamed for what might easily have been 'avoided had the customer consulted 
the plain wants and requirements of the stock and given it at least a fair chance to grow and do 
well. We are interested in the success of every article we send out, we take the greatest pains 
to place every item in the hands of our customers in the best possible condition, and in order to 
furnish some precautions and provide for complete satisfaction, we give a few hints on such 
points as are most essential. 
PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS 
SMALL FRUITS 
Plant promptly— do not expose roots to sun or wind. 
Dig holes large enough to accommodate roots without 
crowding (see cut page 29, column one)—loosen soil 
in bottom of hole. Pack soil firmly about roots; then 
pour a pan of water into hole and fill hole with remain¬ 
ing loose dirt. Spread well-rotted cow manure, straw, 
leaves, or peat moss about plant. Soak occasionally 
during prolonged dry spells. See special planting 
instructions for planting evergreens, roses, small fruits. 
FRUIT TREES 
For setting out, care, and management of commercial 
orchards write us or consult your local Farm Bureau 
man as to the best methods to follow. 
For the home orchard, the area around the trees 
should be cultivated for the first few years. An annual 
spring application of well-rotted cow manure or other 
organic fertilizer will aid growth. Also a summer 
mulch of hay or straw about the trees will help con¬ 
serve moisture during prolonged dry spells. Balanced 
commercial fertilizers may be applied on older trees 
in the early spring at the rate of one to six pounds per 
tree depending on the size of the tree. 
PRUNING— The pruning of trees should begin when 
they are planted. The transplanting of a tree marks a very 
critical point of its life history, and to neglect careful 
and proper methods of planting and pruning at that time 
is to invite disaster or, at least, unsatisfactory returns 
for one’s efforts. 
Apple and Pear —Select from three to five of the 
branches to form the permanent head of the tree. These 
branches should be well distributed around the trunk, 
and at safe distance apart up and down the trunk. If 
two branches come out, one exactly opposite the other, 
forming a crotch, a split may occur at this weak point 
in later life, when the tree is full of fruit. Shorten these 
selected branches to about five buds, cutting the 
branches just above a bud that points outward. Remove 
all the other branches close to the trunk. Also shorten 
back two-thirds the central leader of the tree, if one 
exists, else the tree assumes a too upright growth for 
best results in later life. 
Cherry —Five or six good limbs, well distributed 
around the trunk will be sufficient to form a well 
balanced top. The limbs left after pruning should not 
be cut back as severely as recommended for some other 
classes. 
Peach and Plum —Cut back all branches to about two 
or three buds. After the tree has grown for a year, 
remove all but four or five branches, but do not cut 
these back. These limbs will form the permanent frame¬ 
work for the top and subsequent growth may be 
pruned to meet the requirements or taste of the planter. 
CONTROL OF BORERS —These pests of apple and 
peach trees must be killed by a wire thrust into their 
tunnels, disclosed by removing a few inches of dirt 
around the base of the tree. Go over your trees in 
April or May and in late August or September. After 
cutting out the borers mound up the dirt around the 
trunk about 6 inches high. 
Gooseberries and Currants —Prepare the ground by 
deep plowing or spading. Cut the plants back fully 
one-half. Plant four feet apart both ways, same depth as 
plants stood in the nursery row, and firm soil well. 
Blackberries, Raspberries, Dewberries —These should 
be set fairly deep, except one-year-old raspberry plants, 
the new growth of which starts from the crown in the 
mass of hair-like roots,- these should be planted shallow, 
with the crown not more than one inch below the 
surface. Too deep planting is often fatal to one-year-old 
raspberry plants. Plant in rows five or six feet apart, 
with plants three to four feet apart in the row. Firm 
the dirt around each plant. Keep surface of ground 
loose. Water in dry weather during growing season. 
Mulch in winter after the ground is frozen. 
Strawberries —Plants should be set and cared for the 
same as tomato and cabbage plants. Plant in rows three 
to three and one-half feet apart and twelve to fifteen 
inches in a row. The cheapest way to grow them is to 
plant in long rows and tend with a corn plow, using 
shields. Never allow rows to spread to more than eight 
or ten inches in width. Cover the plants late in the fall 
with one or two inches of prairie hay or stable litter 
(if free from weed seed). This covering should be re¬ 
moved from the plants in early spring and left between 
the rows until the fruit is picked, then it should be 
removed from the patch and the rows cultivated the 
same as before. 
Grapes —These should be planted ten to twelve 
inches deep in holes large enough to admit roots with¬ 
out curling them, pressing soil solid about roots. Cut 
vines back to within three or four buds of the roots. 
Keep the ground clean by cultivating,- if impossible to 
cultivate, mulch. 
As the vine grows train to trellis. 
Prune in February or early March, before there are 
any signs of new growth. 
Cut back to two buds. The fruit of the grape is borne 
only on shoots of the current year’s growth, which 
spring from the wood of last year’s growth—hence the 
importance of annual and intelligent pruning. 
Asparagus —Prepare ground by deep plowing or 
spading. Set plants twelve to eighteen inches each way, 
three inches deep, with roots well spread out. Every 
fall mulch the bed well with manure. 
Rhubarb —Prepare ground as for asparagus. Set the 
plants with crown or eye two inches under ground. 
Plant three feet apart each way. Mulch in winter. Give 
clean cultivation the same as for any other crop. 
Line shows proper place to 
cut. Leaving stub as shown 
causes scar difficult to heal. 
Good sharp pruning tools 
are essential. 
