A GOOD 
TRELUS 
This hush hap¬ 
pened to have only 
five canes, all of 
which were long 
ones. If your 
hushes have more 
strong canes it 
is advantageous to 
leave more canes 
per hill. 
CULTURAL NOTES—Continued 
manure and twice that amount of other 
manure, scattered between the rows and 
hoed and watered in, usually increases 
the size and quality of the crop won¬ 
derfully. If manure is not available, 
from to 1 pound of nitrate of soda or 
sulphate of ammonia per plant scattered 
between the rows and soaked in at about 
blossoming time will help. Or if fish 
meal, blood meal or tankage is available 
from one to two pounds per plant work¬ 
ed in the ground in February will cer¬ 
tainly help make them do their stuff. 
The time of applying these different fer¬ 
tilizers is important because some mate¬ 
rials become available much quicker 
than others. 
On commercial plantings, when ma¬ 
nure is not available, from one-half to 
one ton of fish meal, blood meal, tank¬ 
age, or a good mixed fertilizer, the exact 
amount depending on the soil, will 
usually prove a very good investment. 
These materials are usually applied 
about the time growth starts in the 
spring. Some growers are coming to the 
conclusion that fall is a better time to 
apply most kinds of fertilizer, rather 
than the spring. This, of course, does not 
include the very soluble material, like 
nitrate of soda, sulphate of ammonia, or 
nitrate of lime. For strawberries from 
three-fourths to one ton per acre of fish 
meal scattered down the irrigation fur¬ 
rows and cultivated in in February and 
an equal application again when the first 
crop begins to thin out, usually around 
the first of May, gives wonderful re¬ 
sults on many soils. On small plant¬ 
ings this would be at the rate of ten to 
fifteen pounds per hundred feet of row. 
If manure is to be used in the straw¬ 
berry bed or field; and there is nothing 
better; it should be scattered in the fur¬ 
rows between the rows early in the win¬ 
ter so the rains can carry it down, and 
so that it will be cultivated in and all 
out of the way, by the time irrigation 
starts in the spring, and this is very 
early for the early varieties of straw¬ 
berries. 
CONSTBUCTINa THE TBEEIiIS 
Trelllsing —It pays to use posts made 
from the kinds of wood which is known 
to last well in the ground. In California, 
Redwood is the best material for posts. 
Do not use pine, for many of the posts 
will rot off in one year and will cause 
you no end of trouble later. All lumber 
dealers either have in stock, or can order 
6 ft. 2"x2" split redwood grape stakes, 
which make the best and most economical 
posts for berry trellises. Split stakes or 
posts are better than sawed posts be¬ 
cause they do not have knots. They are 
already sharpened and can be driven in 
soft ground. 
Use heavy end posts and stretch the 
wires the length of the rows. The end 
posts should be anchored or well braced, 
for all of the pull comes on them and the 
wires should be tight. It is better to tie 
your wire around the end posts than to 
staple it. On the inside posts it is better 
to set them corner-wise with the row, 
and saw notches about an inch deep, 
slanting down, for the wires to rest in. 
The lower wire should be on one side of 
the post and the upper wire on the other. 
This makes a cheap durable trellis, which 
is easy to take down. If you wish (as 
often happens) your trellis to be higher 
after the first year, all you have to do 
is to saw notches higher on the posts 
and raise the wires up, and there will be 
no staples to pull. 
We space the redwood posts about 30 
feet apart. After the wire is stretched 
and fastened up to the posts where we 
want it, we put a spreader between each 
post. This consists of two lathes, one 
on each side of the wires, with a small 
nail driven through them and clinched 
just below each wire. This prevents the 
wires from sagging or being drawn to¬ 
gether when the canes are wound up on 
them. We use No. 13 galvanized wire on 
top, and No. 14, below. 
For raspberries No. 16 galvanized wire 
is large enough. 
No. 13 wire goes about 45 feet to the 
pound; No. 14 about 52 feet, and No. 16 
about 70 feet per pound. 
For blackberries. Loganberries, Young- 
berries and Boysenberries, we make our 
trellis one wire above the other with top 
wire from 3i/^ to 4% feet high, accord¬ 
ing to how long and how heavy the vines 
are and the lower wire about 2 feet from 
the ground. 
For raspberries, we use crossarms with 
two light wires about one foot apart. The 
crossarms are nailed to the posts at 
whatever height seems to support the 
canes best according to how high they 
are. The raspberry canes simply are pre¬ 
vented from falling down when they get 
heavy. 
