Roses need sunshine, but it is not necessary that they be exposed to 
the sun all day; half a day of sunshine is sufficient, either morning or 
afternoon. 
To prepare the beds, remove one spade-depth of soil and pile it on one 
side. This is “topsoil.” Then remove a second spade-depth and pile it 
on the other side. This is “subsoil,” to be taken away. This makes a 
trench 18 inches deep. Rose roots seldom go deeper. Loosen the bottom 
of the trench with a spading-fork. Refill the trench with the topsoil, 
mixing it with a liberal amount of old manure, then finish the bed with 
good garden soil. 
When planting Roses, always carry the plants in a bucket of water. 
Prune the roots by shortening the long ones and making fresh cuts at the 
ends of the others. Dig a hole deep and wide enough to accommodate 
the roots naturally and without crowding. Work very fine soil between 
the roots and refill the hole a little at a time, always packing the soil 
hard on the roots. When the hole is three-quarters full, pound the soil 
with your heels and all your weight, then pour in plenty of water. When 
the water has disappeared, put soil in to the normal level, but do not 
pack any more. When planting in the spring, prune the tops of the plants 
at about 4 to 5 inches above soil-level; this is extremely important. (See 
marginal sketch.) When planting in the fall, see “Wintering Roses” and 
sketch on opposite page. 
Cultural Hints 
WATERING. Roses like plenty of water. Flood the beds once a week by placing the 
hose on the bed and letting it run slowly so that water may reach deep to the roots. Avoid 
wetting the foliage, especially in the evening. 
RIGHT 
A Hybrid Tea 
Rose pruned bigb 
in spring. 
The result of bigb 
pruning. Bare legs- 
tall growth. 
SPENT BLOOMS should be removed, cutting the stem above the first complete set of five 
leaves. If long-stemmed blooms are desired for cutting, remove old flowers so that two sets 
of leaves remain on the stalk. The next crop of blooms will spring from these eyes. 
FERTILIZERS. No fertilizer of any nature should be applied the first year of planting. 
Roots are not yet in condition to consume it, and it may do a great deal of harm to young 
fibrous roots which have to be formed after transplanting. Later a mixed or “complete” fertil¬ 
izer, as sold under various trade-marks, and equivalent to 1 part nitrogen, 2 or 3 parts phos¬ 
phoric acid, and 1 or 2 parts of potash, is preferable to any single one of these products. Apply 
very lightly (a teaspoonful per plant) but often, and water liberally after each application. 
PRUNING everblooming climbers (Blaze, New Dawn, etc.) should not be done during 
the growing season because remontance (subsequent blooming) comes out of the first top eye 
under the previous cluster of blooms. Spent blooms may be pinched off but the flower-bearing 
stems must not be shortened or it will stop reblooming. 
A Hybrid Tea 
pruned low in 
spring. 
Result of close 
pruning. Low, compact 
—large flowers. 
[ 22 ] 
