Albertine. HW. (Barbier & Co., 1921.) Vermilion buds and 
coppery-chamois-yellow flowers, passing to coppery-rose; 
large, rather loosely formed. Blooms in clusters. Beauti¬ 
ful leathery shining foliage with reddish-tipped leaves. 
American Beauty. Cl. Deep pink, free-flowering. 
Bonfire. Mult. (E. Turbat & Co., 1928.) Flowers double, 
dazzling scarlet, borne in large, elongated clusters of 20 
to 25 blooms. Growth very vigorous, climbing; very early 
bloomer. 
Chaplin’s Pink Climber. HW. (Chaplin Bros., 1928.) Sub¬ 
stantial broad trusses of wide, flat flowers in a brilliant 
shade of clean, pure pink which is retained from bud to 
full-grown flower. The plant is vigorous and extremely 
free-flowering, covering itself completely with sheets of 
bloom. 
Chastity. Cl.HT. (Cant, 1924.) A fine, pure-white pillar 
rose. Sweetly scented flowers of perfect shape. Vigorous. 
Crimson Glow. HW. (Chaplin, 1930.) A fine climber of the 
same habit as Paul’s Scarlet. The flowers are large and 
full deep crimson with white base. 
Dr. W. Van Fleet. HW. (Dr. W. Van Fleet, 1910.) Pale pink 
buds and flowers equal in form and size to the finest 
Hybrid Teas, borne on long, individual stems. The ptant 
makes enormous thorny canes and produces thousands of 
flowers. 
Dr. Huey. HW. (Capt. Geo. C. Thomas, 1914.) Deepest 
crimson-maroon, shaded black. Large, semi-double flow¬ 
ers borne in profuse clusters on a healthy, vigorous plant. 
Glen Dale. HW. (Dr. W. Van Fleet. 1927.) A perfectly 
hardy and vigorous but not rampant climber, with heavy 
green hybrid tea-like foliage. The lemon-colored buds are 
long, beautiful and uniform in shape. Truly a wonderful 
climber. 
Lady Hillingdon. Cl. A climbing sport of the well-known 
and popular bush of the same name. 
Paul’s Lemon Pillar. HT. (Paul, 1915.) Pale sulphur-yellow, 
good size and form. A fine pillar rose. Gold Medal, N.R.S. 
Paul’s Scarlet. HW. (W. Paul & Son, 1916.) Intense pure- 
scarlet, semi-double flowers in clusters. During the flow¬ 
ering season the plants are a wonderful sight. Makes a 
wonderful pillar or pergola rose. 
Shot Silk. Cl. A climbing sport of the bush of the same 
name. Exceptionally good. 
PLANTING ROSES 
PLANTING—If you are not quite ready to plant when 
the parcel arrives from the nursery, you must take care that 
the plants do not dry out meantime. Holes should beMug 
wide enough and deep enough to receive the root system 
without twisting or crowding. Plant just deep enough to 
cover the junction of root and stem with one inck-cf ooil. 
(See diagram.) Spread out the roots evenly, giving them a 
downward tendency, return the soil and tread down firmly. 
Firm planting is very important, as loose soil dries^^ out 
quickly, when the plants will be slow to start and may 
even die. If the ground has been previously dug and 
^nanured, manure at planting time will not be necessary, 
but if not, then the holes should be dug deep enough to re¬ 
ceive a forkful of manure in the bottom, covered by an inch 
of soil to pi event tlie dormant roots coming in contact with 
it. Sometimes in Spring, cold drying winds prevail after 
planting, which have a killing effect on newly planted roses. 
..pausing moisture to evaporate from the stems which is 
needed for the production of new' growth. We have found that a good 
safeguard against just such conditions is to cover the newly set plants 
with sacks and soak with w'ater twice daily; this will make dilatory 
plants start that w'ould otherwise have died. 
PRUNING—As these remarks are primarily intended for the first 
year, we will content ourselves by just saying that, after planting, all 
strong branches should be cut to about tw’o inches and the weak ones 
cut right out. See diagram. 
WINTERING—We have found the best kind of winter protection is 
to hill up the plant with about six inches of soil. If the plants are in a 
bed, fill up the depressions made in hilling up with partly decayed 
manure w'ell tramped down. When the ground is frozen, a covering of 
cornstalks or such like material, may be given to help hold snow over 
the bed. Climbing roses should have their stems removed from their 
supports, laid on the ground and covered as above. In Spring, roses 
thus covered must be uncovered before growih starts, but protectiiig 
material should be quickly available should severe frosts threaten. 
Wintering instructions are for the information of growers east of the 
Rocky Mountains and the colder parts of the United States. 
MT. BAKER NURSERIES, SUMAS, WASHINGTON 
SWEENEY, STRAUB a DIMM, HORTICULTURAL PRINTERS, PORTLAND, OREGON 
