26 
flowers is greatly increased, and furthermore, 
there will be recurrent blooms during the sum¬ 
mer, if the flowers in June are cut with long stems. 
We feel that one of the reasons that the popu¬ 
larity of the Hybrid Perpetual has waned is be¬ 
cause the erroneous impression has gone around 
that they do not need pruning; consequently, the 
plant becomes straggly, blooms mediocre and 
unattractive. Therefore, our recommendation is 
to make better use of the pruning-shears on this 
highly desirable type of Rose. 
Climbing Roses—and here we refer to the 
Wichuraianas and the new Australian climbers 
that produce their large flowers singly or in clus¬ 
ters on long stems—need very little pruning the 
first few years, except to see that the old flower- 
stems, provided they have not been used for 
cut-flowers, are cut back to within one or two 
eyes from the main branch. It must be remem¬ 
bered that this class flowers only on wood of the 
previous season’s growth. On most varieties even 
the old, hard canes, provided they are healthy, 
will produce a bountiful crop of flowers year after 
year. At any time, preferably during early sum¬ 
mer after blooming, some of the old canes may 
be removed entirely if the plant is becoming too 
large or growing out of bounds. In other words, 
prune them for shape and symmetry and train 
them wherever and whichever way you want 
them to be, either on trellises, pillars, fences, 
pergolas, arches, etc. Greater profusion of bloom 
results when the new canes are bent or trained 
in different directions instead of being allowed 
to grow straight up. 
The old Rambler type, like Dorothy Perkins 
and Crimson Rambler, whose small, double flow¬ 
ers are borne in clusters, must be pruned each 
year so that the canes that have flowered are 
removed. This allows the new strong shoots 
coming from the base of the plant to grow and 
develop flowering eyes for next year’s flowers. 
In pruning Polyanthus, simply remove the 
faded flowers during the summer and prune 
lightly in spring. 
SUMMER PRUNING OF BUSH ROSES. 
Where the flowers were not cut with medium- 
length stems, the faded blooms should be re¬ 
moved with short stems. Do not cut thick, 
strong stems back to the second or third set of 
leaves as some authorities without experience 
often recommend; this holds especially true for 
newly planted Roses. It is too much of a shock 
to prune so severely in early summer. The Rose 
plant should be allowed to “build itself” and 
therefore needs all the foliage possible. Of course, 
if you want to cut some very long-stemmed 
blooms, it is perfectly all right to do so, but do not 
cut them all from the same plant because you 
destroy the balance between root and top growth. 
AUTUMN PRUNING. The question has 
been asked us many times how or what to do 
about pruning before hilling up with soil for 
winter protection. Very little, if any, is necessary 
except to remove some of the tall branches on 
varieties like Radiance, Lady Ursula, etc. This 
may be done roughly and is mainly recommended 
to prevent imnecessary evaporation when so 
much of the plant is exposed to strong winds 
and sun. 
CULTIVATING AND WATERING. Most 
everyone knows that it is important to keep the 
soil in a Rose-bed loose and aerated. A summer 
mulch of peat moss, tobacco stems, grass-clip¬ 
pings, or other clean litter is always beneficial. 
We like to see the peat moss hoed and worked 
into the upper soil-layer. Roses do not need to 
be hoed or cultivated deeply so long as the job 
is done regularly and thoroughly. 
Never allow Rose-beds to become dry through¬ 
out the entire growing season from early spring 
until late fall. We know of many instances where 
Roses are suffering, especially during July and 
August, from lack of water. In many cases the 
gardener imagines his problem is one of feeding, 
whereas all that is necessary is a thorough soak¬ 
ing. The theory that Rose-gardens must be 
especially well drained has been carried to the 
extreme in this country. It is different in the 
Pacific Northwest and in foreign countries, par¬ 
ticularly England, where climate and atmosphere 
are continually moist. Therefore, our recommen¬ 
dation is always to water, and water plenty, dur¬ 
ing prolonged dry spells. Use the new watering 
device called the Water Wand on page 28. 
A Few Practical Rose Suggestions 
It is always a pleasure to assist with the selec¬ 
tion and arrangement of varieties whenever a 
Rose-garden is being planned. A good idea is to 
send in a rough design showing the proposed 
dimensions of the beds or the space available, 
and we can then suggest a planting-list to show 
spacing, etc. All Rose colors harmonize very well 
indeed, so it is only necessary that at least four 
or five of a variety be used where solid beds are 
being planted. In other words, do not plant a 
long list of one each of a variety in the same bed. 
For the beginner, however, and one who wants 
to learn about Roses, the different varieties 
offered in our valuable collections will give you 
an idea which will be your favorites and which 
ones do best in your certain locality. 
The spacing of Hybrid Teas should be con¬ 
siderably closer than we generally see them. 
Then the general garden effect will not be that 
of a well-hoed piece of soil, but a luxurious mass 
of plants and foliage from which the exquisite 
Rose arises. In other words, Roses always look 
better and do much better when planted closer— 
14 to 16 inches apart—in groups of at least three 
to five of each variety selected. 
Detailed information about how to plant 
Roses and protect them for winter is sent 
with each order. 
f-SSES-* 
TRI-OGEN SPRAY 
A very good Rose fungicide and insecticide is 
Tri-ogen. This must be used as a spray and pre¬ 
vents black-spot and mildew and kills both suck¬ 
ing and chewing insects. 
A. Small Kit (makes 16 quarts; protects 
12 to 20 Roses for season). $1.50 
B. Medium Kit (makes 64 quarts; protects 
50 to 80 Roses for season). 4.00 
C. Large Kit (makes 32 gallons; protects 
100 to 160 Roses for season). 6.00 
D. Estate Kit (makes 128 gallons; protects 
400 to 600 Roses for season). 20.00 
Pomo-Green and Tri-ogen are sent Ex¬ 
press Collect. If wanted by Parcel Post, 
remit 10 per cent additional. 
