of at least three inches. If at all possible have th^s new soil and manure 
plowed in, letting the plow reach deeply into the earth and loosen the soil 
to make it loamy and porous. If you cannot have the bed plowed, then by all 
means have it dug deeply and thoroughly with a spade. The bed is now in 
good condition for planting, but should be allowed to stand several weeks 
before the Rose Bushes are planted. 
It is always advisable to plant early in the South for several reasons. 
One reason is that you can get fresher, better bushes in a larger and more 
desirable selection of varieties and colors if you buy your plants at the begin¬ 
ning of the season. Field-Grown Texas Roses are mature enough to be 
dug and placed on the market in November. A more important reason 
for early planting is that the newly set out Rose Bushes get the benefit of the 
fall and winter rains which firm the earth around them and allow them to get 
established before the sap begins to flow in the spring. Another advantage 
secured by fall planting is that the Roses which are planted in the fall or 
early winter will bloom earlier than those which are planted in the spring. 
We would then suggest that you prepare your Rose Bed in early October 
or November and plant your Roses not later than December 15. However, 
there are no set dates as to planting—-some people prefer spring planting and 
have very successful Rose Gardens. 
The question now arises as to what kind of Roses to buy. By all means 
order your Roses from a reliable nursery. So many Roses that are put on the 
market are of inferior quality, poorly grown, mis-labeled and undergrade, 
that you cannot be too careful. You will be wiser to get your Roses from a 
dependable grower even if you have to pay more, than to get a ^bargain” 
from some one who is growing inferior stock. Always ask for number one 
grade, first-class Rose Bushes fresh dug from the field. There are four 
distinct grades of Rose Bushes. First is the No. 1 grade, having three or more 
strong canes with good root system, always the best buy. Next is the No. 1 ^2 
grade, which is a very nice plant, having two or more strong canes, not as 
good as the No. 1. Then comes the No. 2 grade, having only two or more 
small canes, which make it an undesirable size for garden planting. Lastly, the 
No. 3 grade, crooked, ill-shaped and of such poor quality as to be called a 
cull and should always be destroyed at digging time. The four grades men¬ 
tioned all grow in the same row of any variety. Therefore it is easy to see that 
the No. 1 grade should be chosen for garden planting because it has as much 
vitality as the other three grades combined. Cheap, poorly handled, inferior 
Rose Bushes come high in the end because they do not give satisfaction. 
There are so many good varieties of Roses that it would be impossible 
to list them here. It would be well to isay at this time that you should be 
careful to select varieties which you know are hardy and will be likely to do 
well in your section, A great many beautiful varieties refuse to thrive in 
certain localities. We find that nearly all varieties in red, pink, some two- 
tones, and a few of the whites do well in any locality when they are given the 
proper care. There are a few good yellow varieties hardy enough to succeed in 
the garden of any amateur who will handle them properly. 
Make a wise selection of varieties and then order from a dependable 
concern which puts out quality stock. When you receive your Roses take them 
immediately to your Rose Bed and open the package carefully so as not to 
break off any canes or roots. Take care to keep the roots moist and well 
protected from wind and sun while the holes are being dug. Space the holes 
at regular intervals in straight rows in the bed, making them about two feet 
apart and large enough to spread the roots in a natural position in the hole 
“THE WORLD NEEDS ‘MOORE’ ROSES” 
