DAHLIA CULTURE 
By N. A. MILLER 
There are so many different opinions about how and 
when to plant Dahlias that I almost hesitate to offer 
cultural directions that will apply everywhere. However, 
you will have to use your own judgment to some extent 
because you know your climatic conditions, seasons, soil, 
etc. 
In our Pacific Northwest, the Dahlia is treated as a 
late summer or autumn flower—and is at their best after 
the fall rains start. So, you see. Dahlias naturally love 
a lot of moisture at the blooming period. Dahlias are 
easily grown, requiring no special skill to bring them 
to perfection—any good garden soil will produce fine 
Dahlia blooms if well prepared by deep spading, good 
cultivation and plenty of moisture at blooming time. 
Preparing your soil — Spade your soil 10 to 12 inches 
deep about a month before planting, and rake once a week 
to conserve the moisture. Then, just before planting 
your Dahlias, work your soil over again until it is very 
loose and deep, and without lumps. 
If your soil is clay or very heavy and hard to keep in 
good tillable condition, add sand, old sawdust, or your 
stove ashes and peat moss. If you use peat moss, add 
some lime to counteract the acidity. 
If your soil is poor, broadcast and work into the top 
soil some good commercial fertilizer not too high in 
nitrogen content. A fertilizer compound 4-8-7 (can be 
bought at almost any seed store) composed of 4 per cent 
nitrogen, 8 per cent acid phosphate, 7 per cent potash, or 
use bone meal at the rate of a double handfull to each plant. 
Planting — Dahlias may be planted any time after the 
soil has become thoroughly warmed. But for best results, 
plant from May 10th to June 15th. I believe planting be¬ 
tween these dates will apply to all parts of the U. S. A. 
except perhaps some of the southern states where they 
plant earlier so that the plants will become well rooted 
and established before the very hot weather sets in. 
Dahlias grow very quickly in hot weather if the soil 
has been well prepared, and the Dahlias get a good supply 
of moisture and provided with either good cultivation 
or irrigation. If your Dahlias come into bloom during 
very hot weather or during a drought, mulch around and 
between the plants with some loose material like straw, 
peat moss, old sawdust or your lawn clippings to con¬ 
serve moisture and protect the feeding roots which come 
close to the surface as the plants develop. This iact is not 
generally understood and will account for many failures. 
Plant, if possible, in an open, sunny situation where 
your plants will have good air circulation and not be too 
close to trees or big shrubs. Large Dahlias should be 
planted about 3 feet apart each way—smaller sorts, like 
miniature and pompons, can be planted 2 feet between 
the plants. A good medium size root, as a rule, will pro¬ 
duce the best flowering plant. 
Drive a strong stake to support the plants before 
planting. Never stand the root on end, but lay flat or on 
slight angle with eye or sprout up in holes 4 inches deep 
for heavy soil and 6 inches deep in very loose or sandy 
soil. Cover only about 2 inches and when the roots begin 
to grow, put in the balance of the soil. 
Do not water if your soil is quite moist. If too dry it 
will be better to water your ground thoroughly a day 
or two before planting and cultivate the surface. Water¬ 
ing at the time you plant, especially heavy soil, packs 
14 
