blooms open. Highland Chief is capable of giving good spikes but did not do so well last 
season as some others. In deeper lavenders, Beautiful Ohio is good, and Beowulf should 
be a good late cut flower. 
Many other fine varieties failed to receive mention above, but much space would be 
necessary and much time would of necessity be given to observation and collection of 
data in the summer to give an adequate idea as to comparative merits of varieties. At 
that, another grower’s impressions would be much different. Doubtless a few others 
should have been included here, such as Barcarolle, the fine new orange, and Bit o’Heaven 
in the same class. This one would be wonderfully impressive if it would open its florets 
widely. Margaret Beacon, the fine white with scarlet feather should not be omitted, nor 
Abe, that giant tall salmon. Then there is the beautiful buff Amrita. But I must stop 
before I use space allotted to the price list! 
CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
Doubtless, most of my customers have grown Glads for several years, and to those, 
the giving of these instructions may seem superflous, but for those who have never grown 
these flowers, perhaps a few words may be beneficial. Glads are as easy to grow as the 
average flowers, but blooming in the heat of summer, it is necessary that they be given 
an abundant supply of water for best results, and in sections where highest temperatures 
prevail, the early and the late blooms are likely to be best. Large bulbs should be planted 
from four to six inches deep in any good garden soil away from trees and shrubs and 
not too close to building foundations. They may be planted in full sun or where they will 
receive some shade from the afternoon sun. For finest blooms the bulbs should be planted 
six or eight inches apart. The surface of the soil should be kept well cultivated and water 
given whenever necessary but rather than giving a sprinkling every day or two, it is much 
preferable to give a thorough soaking once a week. A good balanced fertilizer may be 
given when the plants are about two feet high but direct contact with the plants should 
be avoided. If plants show a tendency to lean over it is well to stake them before they 
start blooming. Bulbs may be dug in October, at which time the tops should be cut off 
and the bulbs dried for a few weeks. In three weeks or a month the old roots may be 
removed and the bulbs stored in a frost-proof dry place until planting time. 
Small bulbs and bulblets may be planted more shallow and closer together than large 
bulbs. If one plants bulblets of very expensive varieties, it is recommended that the 
shell be cracked before planting. Some varieties germinate readily without cracking the 
shell but in the case of some, the bulblets are apt to lay dormant a year before starting 
growth. Soaking bulblets a day or so before planting often aids germination. 
Glads are subject to some diseases which are more or less troublesome at times, but 
they usually do not bother much if one changes the location of the planting frequently. 
However, the worst pest to contend with is the Glad thrips. This insect attacks both the 
foliage and the flowers and has become widespread in its devastations. In the last few 
seasons, preventive measures evolved have made it possible to keep this insect in check 
in most cases. There is usually little danger of trouble from thrips until late in the 
season if bulbs are treated before planting. The best remedy for amateurs to use is 
naphthalene. Naphthalene sprinkled among the bulbs in paper sacks or cardboard boxes 
at the rate of an ounce to one hundred large bulbs will kill all thrips if sacks or boxes are 
kept well covered so as to prevent the escape of the fumes for a month or so. The naph¬ 
thalene flakes should be removed before the bulbs start forming roots in the spring or it 
may injure the growth. If damage to plants is noted in the field, they may be sprayed 
with one of the many recommended sprays. Arsenate of lead, Blackleaf 40 combined with 
a little brown sugar (the chemicals being used according to directions given on the con¬ 
tainers) give very good results. 
IRIS AND DAFFODILS 
I grow a good selection of Bearded Iris and Novelty Daffodils and anyone interested 
in these flowers is invited to send for list. Several hundred varieties are included in my 
collection. Daffodils in particular are unfamiliar to most people excepting for a few of 
the old-fashioned kinds grown in our grandmothers’ gardens. The improvements made in 
the last few years are marvelous. 
BOOKS: Frequently I exchange bulbs for books on Natural History and anyone 
having books on Horticulture, General Natural History, etc., are invited to send for my 
list naming some of the books I desire to acquire. 
I am also interested in exchanging bulbs for a Contax, Leica, or Retina Camera and 
for a Graf lex and a 16 mm. good quality moving picture camera and projector. Also, cer¬ 
tain other photographic equipment. Write if interested, telling what you have. 
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