ilte QlaxUalul 
GENERAL 
CULTURE 
Soil—Time and Depth of Planting 
— Buying Bulbs — Cutting Flower 
Spikes —Digging the Bulbs 
The Gladiolus today may be classed as one of the most valu¬ 
able of all flowering bulbs. Few, if any, plants show such a wide 
range of colors or a greater variety of forms. While some of 
the newer kinds are necessarily expensive, great numbers of 
them are so cheap that anyone may have either distinct named 
sorts or choice mixtures at a very low cost. Moreover, they are 
so easily cultivated that the veriest tyro can achieve success. 
As indicated, there are distinctive types of Gladiolus that are 
specially suitable for certain purposes; some varieties are ex¬ 
tremely tall, producing massive spikes of flowers that are as 
effective in the garden as they are on the show bench. Others, par¬ 
ticularly those grouped in the Primulinus class, produce medium 
to small spikes on more or less slender stems, these being particu¬ 
larly useful in decorative work; it is this race that provides all 
the vivid salmon, orange and yellow' shades. The individual 
flowers of the Primulinus varieties are more or less hooded, 
while the larger types are more expanded, although they vary 
considerably in shape. A newer type produces flowers with 
laciniated petals, the individual blooms closely resembling 
orchids. 
Aside from these distinctive characteristics, they also vary 
in the length of time required between planting and flowering. 
Some are much quicker to flower than others and, because of 
this fact, the commercial florists force vast numbers under glass 
during the early Spring; there is even a small flowered extra 
early race, known as Baby Gladiolus, that is especially useful 
for pot culture and for early flowering outdoors, but as they re¬ 
quire planting in the Fall, these baby forms cannot be used 
outdoors in sections where severe freezing occurs. 
There are no truly hardy varieties of hybrid Gladiolus, although 
there are one or two European species that can resist consider¬ 
able frost. Except for breeding purposes and fanciers, however, 
the wild species are of little value; indeed they are so little grown 
that they are much more expensive than the general run of 
hybrids. All the named Gladiolus in commerce are hybrids, the 
result of many years of breeding by specialists at home and 
abroad. 
SOIL 
The culture of Gladiolus is simple. They will grow and bloom 
in almost any soil or situation, but, nevertheless, amply repay 
for generous treatment of rich soil and proper cultivation. They 
enjoy a medium loam, enriched with bonemeal and manure 
preferably incorporated in the soil the previous Fall. They will 
not tolerate manure in contact with the roots, this encouraging 
disease. 
TIME AND DEPTH OF PLANTING 
The bulbs may be planted from mid-April on and should be 
set quite deeply, about 6 inches in a sandy soil and 4 inches in the 
heavier clay loams. The greater depth of planting not only gives 
the plants an opportunity for cool roots and a good moisture 
supply, but eliminates the necessity for staking. In order to 
extend the season of bloom, Gladiolus should be planted every 
two weeks up to mid-July. They will then bloom until frost. 
They may be planted as close as 3 or 4 inches apart, but double 
this space should be allowed for strong growing sorts required 
for exhibition. 
BUYING BULBS 
When purchasing bulbs it is well to remember that the largest 
do not necessarily give the best flowers, inasmuch as some varie¬ 
ties produce small bulbs only. The best bulbs are the ones which 
are the thickest, the flatter ones being rather exhausted. 
CUTTING FLOWER SPIKES 
If the bulbs are to be saved from year to year, sufficient foliage 
must be left upon the plant when cutting to mature the bulbs 
properly; the spikes should be cut so that at least three good 
leaves remain. 
DIGGING THE BULBS 
After the first killing frost, dig the bulbs; it is immaterial 
whether the tops are green or not, but those planted late should 
naturally be lifted last. Generally speaking, all the bulbs should 
be listed before November is far advanced. Cut off the tops 
to within 2 inches of the bulbs and put in a cool place until 
thoroughly dry, when the old bulbs and stems may be removed. 
Store for the Winter in a cool, medium dry basement or cellar. 
If conditions are too moist the bulbs will decay, and if too dry 
they will start into growth prematurely. For named sorts, paper 
bags are handy storage receptacles. 
Sasuuf, Qladiaiul 
Telephone 2264 
Kenneth K. Mills WASHINGTON, CONN. 
