Culture of Bulbs for the Home Garden 
Preparation of the Beds 
Most bulbs thrive in any good garden loam which is well 
drained and not too acid. Beds are prepared to a depth of 12 
inches at least/ and preferably more, before the bulbs go in. 
Heavy soils may be lightened with sand and sandy soils are 
improved by the addition of commercial humus or peat moss. 
Fertilizers: 
Well-rotted manure, commercial cow manure or bonemeal is 
well mixed with the soil before the bulbs are planted. If manure 
is used great care must be taken that it does not come in contact 
with the bulbs. In using bonemeal, the raw ground bone, not 
"acidulated” is preferable. 
Planting 
When the bulb order is delivered, the box should be unpacked 
at once and the bulbs placed in a cool, well ventilated spot until 
they can be planted. 
In making the holes for the bulbs in the prepared beds, use a 
narrow trowel or a special hollow bulb dibble designed to make 
a hole of the right size so that the bulb placed in it is not "hung” 
(placed part way down with an air space beneath). It is essential 
that the bulb sets on the very bottom of the hole. In very heavy 
soil, a handful of sand dropped into each hole before planting 
the bulb may help, but bulbs should never be planted in a soil 
that stays wet in winter and spring. 
To avoid mathematical designs in planting tulips, daffodils or 
other spring-flowering bulbs, keep each variety separate but 
drop them by handfuls on the prepared ground and plant where 
they fall. This method of planting is suitable for naturalizing or 
for informal borders of bulbs or bulbs and perennials. 
When planting in sod, either a cross-cut may be made with a 
sharp spade, or with an edger, so that the edge of the sods may 
be turned back; or a small piece of sod may be removed and then 
replaced after the bulb is planted. 
A safe general rule as to the time to plant is "the earlier the 
better.” Most of the daffodils go in early in September or at 
least by October 15th so that they may make a good root growth 
before freezing weather. The minor bulbs and bleeding hearts 
follow in late September. In October, tulips, hyacinths, the lilies 
as they are available, and Iily-of-the-va 1 ley. 
Bulbs are usually covered two and one half to three times their 
greatest diameter. Tulips go four to six inches apart; daffodils 
a bit more and the larger lilies twelve inches. 
Care After Planting 
After the bulbs are planted give the beds a thorough soaking 
at once. This settles the soil firmly about them and starts root 
growth promptly. 
No winter mulching is necessary unless bulbs have been 
planted so late that they have not made root growth, except in 
the case of lilies. 
In spring, cultivate with a small pronged hoe, being careful 
not to injure the young foliage or the roots. 
A top dressing of fertilizer just as spring growth starts is bene¬ 
ficial, resulting in better and stronger flowers. A formula of one 
half bone flour or very fine ground bone and one half tankage or 
dried blood is satisfactory for the spring dressing. A handful of 
this mixture is sufficient for six to a dozen plants. Work it thoroughly 
into the soil. One or two light applications of liquid manure may 
be substituted for the above. 
After the blooming period is over, it is most important to 
keep the foliage growing on as long as possible. Next year s 
blossoms depend on the health and vigor of this year’s maturing 
foliage. So to cut off the tulip or daffodil leaves and stems before 
they have "ripened” is to deliberately starve the embryo blooms. 
People often complain that crocuses planted in lawns die out after 
the first year. This is usually due to the fact that the grass is cut 
before the crocus foliage matures and the cheery little bulbs, 
shorn of their strength, are unable to produce a second season’s 
bloom. 
If a spell of dry weather is encountered during the time the 
bulb foliage is approaching maturity in late spring and early sum¬ 
mer, it is well worth while to water the bulb beds thoroughly, 
thus prlonging the life of the foliage. 
Of course, the maturing bulb foliage is unsightly but in mixed 
borders especially it is easy to plant so that this will be hidden 
from view. Perennials coming on in late spring and through June 
will cloak the daffodil leaves and tulip stems. 
Lifting 
When bulbs must be "lifted,” due to overcrowding or cessa¬ 
tion in bloom, the job is best done just as the foliage ripens. 
Each variety can be placed in a "flat” (shallow wooden box) 
together with a label. Store or cure the bulbs in a well ventilated 
shed or attic or in a perfectly dry cellar which is airy and not too 
hot. As soon as they are thoroughly dry, pull off the dead foliage 
and carefully separate the bulbs which have increased. Small 
bulblets may be grown on for a year or two in rows in the veget¬ 
able or cutting garden. 
Replanting 
Replainting is donelin the same way as is recommended for the 
planting of newly purchased bulbs, but as the home-grown bulbs 
are on hand they can be put in earlier. This is especially desirable 
with daffodils. 
Daffodils are planted in September or early October, four to 
six inches deep and four to eight inches apart depending on the 
size of the bulbs. 
For naturalizing under trees or on lawns or banks, plant in 
long drifts. 
Divide only when clumps become overcrowded. 
For details of planting and cultural care see general cultural 
notes. 
Tulips are planted in the month of September, through October 
and may even slip in "under the wire” the first week in November 
though this is not advised as good practice. Below the Mason- 
Dixon line November is the best time for planting tulips. They are 
placed four to five inches deep and four to eight inches apart, 
depending on the types and uses. Darwins and Breeders, for in¬ 
formal plantings in the mixed border can go as much as eight inches 
apart. 
Though annual lifting of tulip bulbs is usually advised, here at 
Triangle Gardens we do not disturb the bulbs while they continue 
to bloom satisfactorily. A cessation of bloom indicates crowding 
or lack of nourishment and is the signal for lifting. 
Hyacinths are planted in October, five inches deep and five to 
six inches apart. 
This rather stiff and formal flower, in outdoor plantings lends 
itself to displays in window boxes or beds where masses of solid 
color are desired and therefore are planted quite close together 
as a rule. 
As with the tulips, hyacinths may be left in the ground until 
they show signs of failure to bloom. 
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CARRYING CHARGES PREPAID EAST OF THE MISSISSIPPI 
