and about as deep. The size of the hole will de¬ 
pend on the size of the tree; a three-foot hole 
is large enough for trees up to 6 feet; a hole 
three and a half to four feet in size should be 
used for trees over this size. The hole must be 
large enough to afford ample room for spread¬ 
ing the roots in their natural position. (See Fig. 
1.) The lower part of the hole, providing space 
for the tap root, may be made with a post hole 
auger. 
We illustrate a planting diagram for one acre, 
with trees fifty feet apart. To insure straight 
rows set flagged stakes as shown, lining up rows 
A to B and C to D. With these lines as guides 
you should have little difficulty in spacing trees 
uniformly, greatly enhancing the appearance of 
the grove when it reaches its maturity. 
Your ground should be put in a state of good 
cultivation through any convenient method. If it 
is not possible to prepare the entire tract at one 
time, you can lay out your rows and prepare a 
strip ten or twelve feet wide, preparing the 
rest of the tract later. 
HANDLING TREES ON ARRIVAL: Pick 
up your shipment of trees immediately. (We 
send our customers a notice, advising them 
when shipment is made.) We pack our trees 
very carefully in moist material, and the trees 
will carry in the bundles in good shape for sev¬ 
eral days. It is advisable, however, to wet the 
roots thoroughly by pouring water down through 
the bundle, or soaking the root end of the bundle 
in water. It will do the trees good to soak the 
roots for an hour or so before planting them. 
Be careful to protect the young trees from 
freezing weather. 
HOW TO SET TREES: If for any reason 
you cannot set the trees within two or three 
days after arrival, dig a ditch about eighteen 
inches deep; lay the trees, a few at a time, in 
this ditch at an angle of about forty-five degrees ; 
cover the roots and about a fourth of the body 
of the tree with well-pulverized, damp dirt; put 
in a few more trees and repeat the operation 
until all the trees have been heeled in. It is al¬ 
ways best to plant your trees immediately after 
arrival, but if heeled in on well-drained soil 
in the manner described they will remain in 
good shape for quite a while. 
Just before planting prune off all broken 
roots, and cut all the other roots back to fresh 
wood, cutting from the underside upward and 
outward, at an angle. Use sharp knives or 
pruners. Expose the roots as little as possible 
to wind or sun. 
Fig. 1 shows a budded tree with a four-inch 
sewer tile for applying artificial moisture. This 
is a splendid method of applying moisture to 
trees around homes, public buildings, parks, 
etc. The outer end should be closed when not 
in use to prevent evaporation. An old sack, rolled 
up and stuffed in the end of the pipe, makes a 
very satisfactory stopper. 
If a budded tree is broken or damaged it 
will be necessary to get a new sprout above the 
bud and stock union (see illustration) in order 
to grow the thin-shelled nuts satisfactorily. 
Fig. 2 shows two grafted trees. One of these 
is correctly set, with the roots spread in the 
hole as they originally grew. The other tree is 
incorrectly set; the roots are cramped because 
the hole is too small. You will notice that the 
graft (or scion) and stock union on these trees 
is below the ground level, with a slight offset at 
the top of the graft, shown a little above ground 
level. 
If a grafted tree is damaged or killed back, 
a new sprout anywhere above the graft and 
stock union will make a good tree and paper- 
shell nuts. Some people think that the paper- 
shell stock is from the offset, or top of the 
graft stick, up. This is not the case; there is 
always from one to three inches of the graft 
stick, or papershell stock, below this point. 
After pruning the roots of your tree, place 
a layer of top soil in the hole and then set 
your tree in the hole. It is advisable to have 
4 
Texas Pecan Nursery, 
