someone in the hole to spread the roots and 
place the soil so as to give them their natural 
position, and to press and pack the dirt firmly 
about the tree as the filling in progresses. The 
tree should be set from two to four inches deep¬ 
er than its original ground level, except on low 
ground. On low ground the tree should be set 
at its original position, or two or three inches 
higher, with the earth mounded up about it to 
improve drainage. (See Fig. 4.) Lean the tree 
in the direction from which most of your wind 
comes. The tree will straighten up as it grows. 
If it is not well slanted in the direction of the 
wind when planted it will grow leaning from 
the wind. 
If fertilizer is used, never place it in the 
soil among the roots ; it will burn and kill the 
tree. (See Fig. 2.) 
When the hole is three-quarters filled, pour 
in two or three buckets of water (or more if 
necessary) to settle the dirt sufficiently to get 
rid of all the air pockets. When this water has 
all soaked in, continue filling the hole until it 
is almost full, then settle the soil with more 
water. After this has been soaked up, finish 
filling with dry soil. 
Fig. 3 shows a correctly set grafted tree with 
the dirt raked back and a mulch of straw, hay, 
leaves, or something of the kind, placed about 
the tree. A mulch of this sort is very beneficial, 
especially during the first few summers after 
planting. Another type of mulch can be made 
from four to six thicknesses of old sacks. Where 
this method is used artificial moisture can be 
applied directly through the mulch, eliminating 
the need for the pipe as shown in Fig. 1. 
If you prefer not to use either the pipe or 
the mulch because of unsightly appearance on 
the front lawn, pull the dirt away from the 
tree, starting six inches from it, all the way 
around, forming a basin. Pour water into this 
basin until the ground is thoroughly soaked to 
a depth of two feet or more. After the water 
has been entirely soaked up, rake the dirt back 
in place, leaving dry dirt on top. Never allow the 
sun’s rays to come in direct contact with the wet 
dirt. The best time to water by this method is in 
the late afternoon. One good soaking of the 
ground each week, or every ten days, will be suf¬ 
ficient even during the dry summer months. 
Fig. 4 shows a tree set on flat ground and 
mounded up to secure the necessary drainage. 
This is a very good method to use in planting 
trees on flat ground that is not well drained. 
It is especially advisable to follow this procedure 
on the flat land of South Texas in the vicinity 
of Houston. 
PRUNING YOUR TREES: Good authorities 
differ on the amount of pruning a tree should 
have when it is set. Some advise cutting back 
much more than others. Trees under 6 feet, 
when planted where the average rainfall is 
forty inches or more, will need but little cutting 
back when set. Trees 6 feet and over should 
have the limbs cut back to stubs eight to fifteen 
inches in length at the time of planting. In 
sections where the wind is strong, and where 
the average rainfall is less than thirty-five 
inches, trees should be severely pruned when set. 
Trees under 7 feet when set in Western Okla¬ 
homa and in West Texas seem to do best when 
cut back to within twenty-four to thirty-six 
inches of the ground level. 
After your trees get well 
started but little pruning is 
necessary. 
Fig. 5 shows how to protect 
trees from rabbits by the use of 
sacks, screen or wire cloth. 
Rabbits, especially jack rabbits, 
are bad about gnawing and 
peeling trees for the first three 
or four winters after planting. 
Screen or wire cloth supported 
and held together by being 
tacked to a small board about 
an inch thick and from twenty 
to thirty inches long will provide 
adequate protection. 
Incorporated, T yler 
5 
