174 
THE NATIONAL NURSERYMAN 
HOW TO FORCE RHODODENDRONS 
B. B. C. Felix, of Felix & Dykhuis, Boskoop 
Besides being able to produce beautiful effects with the 
rhododendron in landscape architecture, one finds they are 
ideal forcing plants, and their popularity stands preeminent 
with the Azalea Indica. Their heavy, dark green, leathery 
foliage is striking, to say nothing of the great masses of 
varied colored flowers, which are produced in large trusses 
on the end of every branch of the plant. There is such a 
variety of color in the long list of varieties that, with a 
judicious selection, it is possible to make any desired color 
arrangement. The colors are generally pure and show 
variegations from pure white to clear violet, delicate pink and 
deep crimson. 
Although I spoke of large trusses, I am sorry to say that 
the rhododendron which is forced in the spring does not 
always show them as large and well-colored as they should 
be. I ascribe this to wrong treatment in forcing in the 
majority of cases. It takes time and care to get a rhodo¬ 
dendron into bloom and also a knowledge of the different 
varieties, whether they are early, medium, or late blooming. 
By reason of the success we have had with our rhododendrons 
at various exhibitions and especially at the great flower- 
show at Boskoop, April, 1911, we received a number of 
letters asking us how we managed to have so many varieties 
in bloom at one time, where there were early, medium and 
late blooming varieties seen in the collection. 
When a rhododendron is sent out it is fully prepared for 
forcing. The peaty soil in Boskoop is the ideal soil for this 
class of plants, especially for those destined to forcing. 
Here they flourish and thrive to perfection and make strong 
buds which will easily respond to applied heat. 
After the cases have arrived from Holland, they should at 
once be unpacked. Generally they are more or less dry in 
the roots, and should be placed in a shallow tank or other 
receptacle to moisten them. There they can be left for 
half an hour or so. The canvas should be taken off the 
rootballs, and the heads untied. It is best to pot them im¬ 
mediately in not too large pots. Pot them if possible with 
leafmould, and do not ram the soil too hard in the pots. 
The bottom of the pots should be covered with potsherds. 
If the balls are too heavy, shake off the superfluous soil, 
but do not cut the roots. Some varieties make three to four 
buds on the same branch. Some of these should be taken 
off, so that only the strongest is left. Superfluous buds also 
should be broken out to allow those that remain on the plant 
sufficient space to develop well. 
The pots can now be heeled into a cold frame. In fine 
weather or during a mild rain, the lights must be taken off, 
and only in freezing weather should they be put on. Do not 
place them in the hothouse right away. The object is to 
have the roots sprout. The better they are rooted, the better 
they will force. If possible, let each plant stand clear of its 
neighbor, so that light and air can pass freely between them. 
They should be safe from frost. Watering should be done 
only if necessary. 
They should be left in the frame till early January, 
when they may be taken into the greenhouse. A tempera¬ 
ture of 50-60° F. should be maintained to start with. After 
four or five weeks the roots begin to sprout and from that 
time a higher temperature, not exceeding 70-75° F., can be 
applied. 
In the first days the rhododendrons are in the greenhouse, 
the leaves need be syringed with a thin spray only once a day, 
but after the temperature is raised, and especially on sunny 
days, spraying twice a day will be necessary. Do not use 
the hose. By the middle of March, the glass has to be 
shaded with canvas or similar material, and the pots 
should be watered abundantly. It is advisable to have 
always a moist atmosphere in the house. 
When rhododendrons are taken into the greenhouse early 
in January some of the earliest blooming varieties can be had 
in bloom by the beginning of March. Spraying on the open 
trusses should be avoided. If a number of varieties are 
wanted in bloom at a fixed time, then the early flowering 
varieties must be brought inside later than the medium, 
and these again later than the late flowering varieties. 
Late varieties should never be forced early. This costs a 
lot of heat, and the results are doubtful. It is very essential 
to know if a variety is early, medium, or late. Ignorance of 
this leads to disappointment. 
FRUIT MARKET CONDITIONS AT VARIOUS POINTS 
Towards the middle of April it was estimated that within 
the month previous the stock of apples in storage had been 
reduced fifty per cent. Choice and fancy fruit of Ben Davis 
sold as high as $3.50 at this time, Baldwin and Russett $4.00, 
and Greening $3.00 to $5.00 per barrel, says an advice from 
Rochester in The New York Packer. 
New York. —In New York Baldwins and a few Green¬ 
ings were coming to the market, and on one or two days 
fancy fruit of these varieties was selling at $4.50 and $5.50, 
respectively. 
Chicago. —^At the same period apples, except fancy stock, 
were slow of sale in Chicago, due largely to the arrival of 
quantities of southern strawberries. Baldwins were bring¬ 
ing $3.75 to $4.00, Spys $3.50 to $4.50, Greenings $4.00 to 
$5.00, and Ben Davis $3.00 to $3.50. 
Kansas City. —Strawberries from Louisiana and Texas 
brought $3.00 to $4.25 for a 24-quart crate, and there was 
not enough good stock to satisfy the call. The demand for 
apples was becoming slighter, while the prices for various 
southern fruits remained rather steady. 
Pittsburg. —The amount of fruit and produce entering 
the Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, region annually approximates 
30,000 car loads. Merchants here are handicapped by the 
congested conditions of the railroad yards, which, together 
with the high storage charges for produce not unloaded within 
forty-eight hours, causes great expense and consequent high 
prices. 
