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GIANT SWEET PEAS 
ENGLISH GROWN, LONG STEMMED — TREATED Q SEED — LARGE FLOWERED, TRUE COLORS 
wm. 
T.T.S. 
THE QUEEN OF ANNUALS 
A photograph of our Giant Sweet Peas as grown by one of our customers, cordon style, who also cooperated with us in writing these cultural notes 
CULTURAL HINTS for SWEET PEAS 
SINGLE STEM OR CORDON SYSTEM 
The preparation of the soil for Sweet Peas should be undertaken as early 
in the Autumn as possible, allowing time for the soil to settle before the 
Spring. Loose soil in the trenches is detrimental to success. Dig out 
trenches running north and south in a sheltered but not shady position 
2 feet deep and 2 feet wide, put in a generous amount of cow or well- 
rotted horse manure and bonemeal, fork over and mix with the soil 
as filling in progresses and tread down. Do not leave manure in a solid 
layer at bottom of trench. An application of lime forked in near top of 
trench may be beneficial, and drive in a stake at each end to mark cen¬ 
ter of trench. Do not do this work in wet weather. 
We are now ready to consider sowing the seed which should be done 
early November in a cool greenhouse or frame in sand and when large 
enough to handle, place in inch pots, keeping the seedlings as deep 
as possible in the pots. Use no fertilizer, only a compost of equal parts 
of sand, loam and leafmold. Grow on in a cool greenhouse near the glass 
and after root action is established pinch back to the first set of leaves. 
If the seed was sown early November the young pot plants will be ready 
for shifting to 4 inch pots by the end of December, or early January, 
using good loam, mixing in a little bonemeal and Scotch soot. If possible, 
continue to grow in cool greenhouse until there is good root action in the 
4 inch pots, then on a mild day move to a coldframe or shallow pit in 
a sheltered, sunny position; bank around the frame with manure or 
leaves, etc. to prevent freezing; also cover with mats each night, but 
allow them as much light as possible during the day. Watering should 
be done on a mild day. Keep moist. 
About the latter part of February, weather permitting, cut all unneces¬ 
sary growth, leaving only the two best shoots; trim off all tendrils at 
this time; repeat about the end of March but retain only the strongest 
shoot and stake it. Cut off all tendrils and harden off the plants in 
preparation for outside planting. It is now time to fork over the trenches 
and drive in the heavy supports at ends and every 9 feet or so. Strong, 
genuine Chinese canes 8 feet long are then driven in 8 inches apart, 
a cane for each plant, usually in a double row. When these are in place, 
reinforce by running a wire from top of heavy supports the length of 
trench and a wire in the middle; fasten all canes to these wires. See 
photograph. 
1939 NOVELTIES, See page 114, GENERAL LIST, See 
We are now ready for the planting, which is usually done about April 
10th, weather permitting. This and other dates are for the vicinity of New 
York City, make allowance for earlier or later localities. Place a plant 
against each cane, make the holes large enough to accommodate all the 
roots, do not break or damage the fine feeding roots; tie each plant to 
its support. About the middle of May the first flower buds will appear; 
pinch them out; however, leave the buds about a week before flowers 
are desired. 
Exhibition or high class flowers are usually produced about the end of 
May and first two weeks of June, and when the vines stand about 4 feet 
high, when necessary, thoroughly soak the trenches with water before 
which a light dressing of good mixed fertilizer, rich in phosphate and a 
little Scotch soot may be applied, but great care must be used, better a very 
light dressing several times than too much at one time. If in doubt, do 
not fertilize. 
WITHOUT A GREENHOUSE 
Prepare the trenches or rows as described, this may be done in the 
Spring, in which case be sure to tread down the soil in the trenches firmly. 
Do not do this work in wet weather. 
The seed may be sown in January or February in flats or boxes of sand 
and placed in a frame or indoors to start germination. 
Put the young seedlings into 3 inch pots, keep indoors giving light, pinch 
back to the first two leaves to encourage breaking from the base; keep 
the plants growing and protect from frost; as they develop, trim off the 
tendrils; retain about three good shoots. 
The planting out time is the same as previously mentioned, April 10th, 
for New York. Supports can be wire netting, branches, etc. When 
watering is required, soak the trenches thoroughly. 
SOWING OUTDOORS 
Some success can be obtained by sowing the seed directly into the rows 
as early in the Spring as possible, and in sections where the Summer is 
cool, surprisingly good Sweet Peas can be grown from outside sowing. 
The seed may be soaked in water for a day. 
NOTE—These cultural notes are not intended for warm climates, 
such as Florida, etc. 
page 115, EARLY or GREENHOUSE, See page 118 
113 
