To the Happy Amateur Gardener ♦ ♦ ♦ To the Spare-Time 
Gardener ♦ ♦ ♦ To the Before-and-after-work Gardener ♦ ♦ ♦ 
To the Week-end Gardener ♦ ♦ ♦ To the Gardeners who 
don^t really work in their Gardens, but play! 
SEEDS. 
After you make your plan 
you should purchase your 
Barteldes Seeds from your 
dealer. The importance of 
using these seeds cannot 
be emphasized too strong¬ 
ly. It takes just as much 
space, time and labor to 
plant and cultivate half a 
stand as a full stand. The 
best seeds available are 
the cheapest in the end— 
since the increased yield 
and quality of product will 
more than pay the extra 
cost of good seed. 
Your dealer is reliable 
and he takes on interest 
m keeping up to date on 
now and what seeds grow 
best in your community, 
and stocks up with Bar¬ 
teldes seesls. 
SEEDS for a 
Garden to feed 
Family of five 
The size of your plant and your 
personal taste will determine 
which of the following you care 
to grow. In some cases it may 
be more satisfactory to buy 
plants rather than grow them 
from seed. 
1 PACKET EACH: Beets early, 
broccoli, cabbage early, cab¬ 
bage late, cauliflower, celery, 
chard, cucumber, egg plant, 
lettuce, parsnip, pepper, ruta¬ 
baga, spinach, summer squash, 
tomatoes early, tomatoes late, 
turnijSS early, turnips late. 
1 OUNCE EACH: Beets late, carrots, 
kohl-rabi, onions, radish, winter 
squash. 
2 lbs. string or lima beans, 25 lbs. 
early potatoes, 1 lb. onion sets, 1 lb. 
sweet corn, II /2 lbs. peas. 
BIG SPACE 
NOT NEEDED 
FOR THE 
KITCHEN 
GARDEN. . . 
You'll be surprised how 
much food you can raise 
on a small space, and the 
thrills you'll experience. 
And a row or two of each 
kind of vegetables will 
give you fresh, crisp, ten¬ 
der things to eat for many 
weeks. Out of the back 
door into the garden, and 
right back, with armfuls 
of tasty vegetables—foods 
for salads — juicy toma¬ 
toes to stuff—cool fresh 
cucumbers — tender string 
beans—beets to pickle— 
carrots — cauliflower — 
sweet corn on the cob, etc. 
PREPARING THE GROUND p/®: 
, , pared in the fall 
or early winter for the properly managed gardens. A 
heavy application of manure should be put on the garden 
plot. Then spade or plow to a depth of 10 to 12 inches. 
Leave ground rough so it will catch and hold sun and 
rain, and thus store moisture. 
FERTILIZATION growing of so many crops on 
a small area causes a heavy drain 
on the supply of plant food in the soil and consequently to 
maintain the fertility of the garden requires heavy fer¬ 
tilization. 
In. most cases it is advisable to apply a commercial fer¬ 
tilizer to the garden in addition to manure. When properly 
applied it will increase the quality of the vegetables, as 
well as the yields. 
The method of applying commercial fertilizers is very im¬ 
portant. After the ground is plowed and worked into a 
good seed bed, the fertilizer should be applied broadcast 
and mixed well with the top inch or two of soil just a few 
days before the crop is planted. 
THTNNTNr^ Root crops grown from seed usually come 
up too thick to develop well, so it is a 
good practice to start thinning the row as soon as they 
attain a size that can be used. 
IRRIGATION AND MULCH 
In some seasons 
it becomes so dry 
that many of the crops wither and die. If water is avail¬ 
able, these crops may be saved by irrigating. This water 
may be supplied by making a shallow trench along the 
side of the row, just far enough away from it to avoid dis¬ 
turbing the soil around the plants, and running the water 
into this trench, supplying enough to soak down several 
inches into the soil. It is well to follow the irrigation with 
cultivation as soon as the ground on top is dry enough to 
work. 
Straw, paper and other mulching materials may be used 
on the garden. Straw is especially beneficial on late 
potatoes and will often help to prolong the bearing period 
of tomatoes. 
The PLANTING CALENDAR F* f 
. . , , the garden made 
and the seed purchased, 
CULTIVATION feeder 
the gardener is ready to 
make his first plantings 
as soon as the season 
permits. 
The planting of the differ¬ 
ent vegetable crops at the 
right time is important. 
There are crops which 
will do best when planted 
as early in the spring as 
the ground can be 
worked. Others should be 
planted later in the sea¬ 
son. 
The time to plant varies 
in different communities 
and climates. 
family favorite ‘Dishes 
Grown in Eleven Groups 
Group 1. Perennial Crops: As¬ 
paragus, Rhubarb, Horse Rad¬ 
ish, Winter Onions, Artichoke. 
Group 2. Potherbs or Greens: 
Spinach, New Zealand Spinach, 
Chard, Mustard, Kale, Collards. 
Group 3. ..Salad Crops: Let¬ 
tuce, Parsley, Endive, Cress, 
Corn Salad, Celery, Chicory. 
Group 4. Cole Crops: Cab¬ 
bage, Cauliflower, Sprouting 
Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Kohl¬ 
rabi, Chinese Cabbage. 
Group 5. Root Crops: Beet, 
Carrot, Parsnip, Turnip, Ruta¬ 
baga, Salsify, Radish, Celeriac. 
Group 6. Bulb Crops: Onion, 
Leek, Garlic, Chives. 
Group 7. Potato Crops: Irish 
Potato, Sweet Potato. 
Group 8. Peas and Beans: 
Bush Snap Beans, Bush Lima 
Beans, Pole Beans, Pole Lima 
Beans, Peas. 
Group 9. Solonaceous: Toma¬ 
to, Eggplant, Pepper. 
Group 10. Vine Crops: Cucum¬ 
ber, Muskmelon, Watermelon, 
Pumpkin, Squash. 
Group II. Sweet Corn and 
Okra. 
roots of most vegetables 
the top two or three inches 
of soil, so all cultivation, 
including that done by 
horse-drawn tools should 
be very shallow to avoid 
cutting or tearing off these 
roots, and thus stunting 
the plants. The main pur¬ 
pose of cultivation is to 
keep down weeds, killing 
them when they first ap¬ 
pear, thus preventing 
them from taking moisture 
and food from the vege¬ 
tables. Keep your garden 
clean and free from weeds 
and debris which harbor 
destructive insects. 
FALL CARE . , . 
After all the crops are 
harvested, all the old 
leaves, vines and plant 
refuse left on the ground 
should be cleaned off and 
burned to destroy insects 
and their eggs, and 
various disease spores 
that would otherwise live 
over the winter in this 
material. This is a most 
important practice in help¬ 
ing to control insects and 
diseases in the garden the 
following year. 
5 
