I 
inted from HORTICULTURE, August 
15 , 
1938 
so that one or two nodes are buried, and firming the sand. 
(Fig. 2.) A thorough watering is helpful after all the cut¬ 
tings are in place. For the first few days, care should be taken 
that too much sun does not cause wilting because this will 
retard the rooting process materially. The leaves should be 
kept firm at all times. However, sufficient circulation of air 
should be present so that moisture does not remain on the 
leaves for a very long time to encourage the growth of mildew. 
After three or four weeks have elapsed, evidences of new 
growth may be seen and this will indicate, in most cases, that 
roots have formed at the base of the cuttings. When these 
roots have become one-half inch to one inch in length, the 
cuttings may be removed from the sand and potted in small 
pots using a sandy loam which has some leaf-mold incorpo¬ 
rated in it. (Fig. 3.) Very little or no fertilizer should be used 
in this first compost. This should be reserved until after the 
young plants have become established. 
In addition to the bedding plants mentioned at the begin¬ 
ning of this article this is the proper time for rooting many of 
the plants for the rock garden. Some of these are creeping 
phlox, arabis, sedum, viola and hardy candytuft. Although 
many of these plants are best propagated by division, satisfac¬ 
tory results may also be obtained from cuttings. 
For success in this method of propagation, the following 
needs should be observed: 
1. Clean, sharp sand free from loam and humus. 
2. Cuttings from new growths which are free from 
disease and insect pests. 
3. Adequate moisture and ^air circulation. 
4. Freedom from excessive strong sunlight. 
5. Cleanliness and close observation. 
—Raymond E. Smith. 
Andover, Mass. 
A Season's Experience With Russell Lupins 
W HETHER it is due to the fact that everyone followed 
the directions given, and either chipped or treated with 
acid, the seed of Russell lupins, or that that strain is 
unusually vigorous, the fact remains that the seed germinated 
rapidly. I am inclined to think that few persons realized the 
hardness of hybrid lupin seed previously and therefore did not 
chip it, with the result that germination was slow and erratic. 
The same condition applies to the seed of the Texas Bluebonnet, 
Lapinus texensis. Seed of this, chipped, came up in a few days: 
^hat American grower has specimens to match these, which were grown in Englandi" 
unchipped, not a seedling is visible after two months and the 
seeds examined are still as hard as stones in the damp soil. 
One point about lupins is that it is unwise to sow early under 
glass or even in mid-Summer, except in pure sand or sterilized 
soil as the seedlings are extremely liable to the same root rot 
that attacks sweet peas. This disease stops all root growth; 
the roots look as if they had been burned. 
The many reported failures with Russell lupins were un¬ 
doubtedly due to this disease or to the damping off disease’s 
attacking the seeds as soon as they burst, many being de¬ 
stroyed before they emerged through the soil. 
I have seen it stated that lupin seedlings do not transplant 
well; this is decidedly untrue. They readily transplant but in 
taking them out of the seed flat, pan or bed, care must be 
taken not to break the roots which are long and easily dam¬ 
aged. When in pots or flats the whole soil mass should be 
turned out and it should be dry enough to permit shaking 
out the roots freely. If in a bed the seedlings should be lifted 
in mass with a fork, not dug out with a trowel or an odd 
label as is permissible with shallow rooting seedlings. 
A notable fact about Russell lupins is that many seedlings 
from an indoor sowing in March, were blooming in early 
July. The same happened with cuttings rooted in March; 
these blooming before June was out. 
“Cuttings'”’ someone may exclaim, “How come?’’ Well 
this writer happened to have large two-year old plants set 
outdoors in April. These began blooming the third week in 
May. Earlier in the month several were flowered in the green¬ 
house. It may be added that of the 80-odd plants flowered, 
no two were alike and all were two-toned or bicolors. 
I may add that lupins, including the Russells, are subject 
to a leaf disease when heat and moisture prevail. The disease 
is not unlike the black rot of delphiniums, but I have not 
found a means of control. The root rot that takes off lupins 
may have some connection with the leaf spot. 
—T. A. Weston. 
Hillsdale, N. J, 
Chipping Russell lupin seeds gives prompt germination. 
Other treatments unnecessary. 
—E. C. Vick. 
