staking on most varieties. The result from shallow plantings is that 
you will lose a large percentage of your plants during the summer 
months. Bear in mind that Dahlias root up instead of down, the same 
as corn. 
4. Fertilizer: 
Fertilizers and their use are more misunderstood than any other 
phase of Dahlia culture. For just as humans vary in their capacities 
for absorbing foods, likewise do plants. The saner method is to regard 
each plant as an individual and to treat it as such throughout the 
entire growing season. There is no fixed rule that would apply to all 
varieties. Then too, different soils require different amounts. It will 
be necessary that each individual grower determine the amount re¬ 
quired. Any Commercial Fertilizer, such as Vigaro, Bone Meal, 4-8-8 or 
a mixture half and half of cotton seed meal and murate potash is 
excellent for Dahlias. For oest results apply first application around 
plants after they get up six or eight inches worked well into the soil. 
One handfull first application and gradually increase amount as the 
plant grows until two or three applications has been made during the 
growing period. If you wish to grow exhibition flowers, when you 
see the first few buds dissolve one tablespoonful Nitrate Soda in 
gallon of water and pour around the plant. 
5. Irrigation: 
In heavy soil, if planted deep, watering is not necessary. Light soil 
may require some watering during extreme dry weather. In this event, 
soak the soil well so that it will penetrate fully a foot deep. 
6. Cultivation: 
By cultivating at least once a week during early growing period, 
the weeds and grass can be held in check, and the soil will conserve 
the moisture. As the plant develops the ground should be worked rather 
shallow around the hill to avoid disturbing the feed roots, however, 
bring some fresh soil to the plant at each cultivation, giving the 
plant a new supply of food, also protecting the surface roots from 
the sun. 
7. Insects and Insecticides: 
Normally the Dahlia is a hardy plant, resistant to the ravages of 
insect pests. This is due largely to the care in which commercial grow¬ 
ers are exercising in culling out new varieties which do not have insect 
resistant powers, consequently, most varieties on the market today 
are relatively insect resistant. Still, at times leaf hoppers and plant 
lice may appear. We recommend two tablespoonfuls pyrethrum soap, 
one tablespoonful Black Leaf 40 added to one gallon water, and used as 
a spray. Red Sp'der can hardly be seen with the naked eye, these 
pests can be detected by the lower leaves turning brown as cured to¬ 
bacco leaves. There will be a fine white web in evidence on under side 
of leaf. These insects multiply very fast in dry, hot weather. A spray 
of Selocide used according to directions will be found very effective. 
8. Cut Flowers: 
Dahlias should be cut in the late afternoons or early mornings, 
removing the lower leaves. We have done considerable experimenting, 
and have tried a number of treatments. After many trials with various 
mixtures of chemicals, the simplest and one that gave best results is 
the following: One teaspoonful sugar, six drops formaldehyde added to 
one gallon water. The formaldehyde kills all organisms in the solution, 
preventing fermentation, the water will not have to be changed for 
three or four days. Flowers can be freshened by cutting end of stem 
and placing back in water. 
9. Digging and Storing: 
Due to the very mild winters we have in the South, if your Dahlias 
have been planted eight to ten inches deep they can be wintered in the 
ground. After the first killing frost, cut off the tops at the ground and 
place board or can over stalk, then cover with earth. During the next 
march or April dig the clumps, when the eyes should appear, allowing 
any amateur to divide. Clumps should never be planted without 
dividing. 
KEY TO ABBREVIATIONS 
F. D.—Formal Decorative. 
I. D.—Informal Decorative. 
S. C.—Semi-Cactus. 
I. C.—Incurved Cactus. 
C.—Straight Cactus. 
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