268 
JUNE, 1917 
FOREST AND STREAM 
Become a Game Farmer 
Write for these two books which tell all 
about this interesting'and profitable work. 
“Game Farming for Profit and Pleas¬ 
ure,” is sent free on request. It treats 
of the subject as a whole; describes the 
many game birds, tells of their food and 
habits, etc. “American Pheasant Breed¬ 
ing and Shooting,” is sent on receipt of 
10c in stamps. It is a complete man¬ 
ual on the subject. 
HERCULES POWDER CO. 
1061 Market Street 
Wilmington 
Delaware 
with a BROWNIE CAMP PAD 
The lightest and most comfortable camp bed. 
Can be used with any sleeping bag, converting 
an uncomfortable bag into a luxurious bed. _ In 
flated in two minutes, packs 4x121 inches, weight, 
4 lbs. Price $13.00. . . 
Recommended by Hunters, Campers, Physicians. 
Forest Service, Guaranteed moisture proof. Cata¬ 
logue Free. 
ATHOL MFG. CO., Athol, Mass. 
Nessmuk’s Old Hunting Grounds 
FOR SALE 
About 1,300 acres. Trout streams emptying 
into river. Boating and bathing. Speckled 
trout and black bass plentiful. Good bird 
shooting. Plenty of deer, bear, rabbits and 
squirrels. Wild gorge surrounded by tall moun¬ 
tains. Modern bungalow cheaply enlarged into 
mountain hotel. Hay fever cured here. Well 
timbered with commercial second growth. Rare 
medicinal spring. Good place for city club. 
No poisonous snakes. At Stone Station, New 
Tork Central R. R., Tioga County, Penn. Taxes 
under $50 per year. Surrounded by state land. 
Altitude high. Communicate with 
Forest and Stream 
118 E. 28th Street New York City 
the bandage and throw it away.—'f ou can 
get such burlap strips probably for nothing 
if you know anyone in a furniture store— 
they come wrapped about the arms and 
legs of new chairs and furniture. Or you 
can cut strips out of old feed bags. Strips 
of coarse jute will do, or of any other 
coarse fiber cloth. 
I have kept track of many accidents at¬ 
tendant upon fishing of which men—and 
women—wearing waders or boots have 
been the victims. Of those coming under 
my observation or that I have read of, at 
least 65 per cent, have been caused by 
wearing slippery foot covering and the 
strain that has resulted from a nasty fall. 
George Gilbert. 
PATCHING RUBBER BOOTS 
WITH AN AUTO REPAIR KIT 
How to patch rubber boots so the patches 
will stay put is a proposition that has 
puzzled many outdoorsmen. Boots that 
have been cut or torn are, of course, as 
good as ever if they are patched right. 
Here is a method that I have found sue 
cessful if the directions are carefully fol¬ 
lowed. 
Procure a patch large enough to leave an 
inch to spare on all sides, to give a good 
holding surface. The patch should be of 
pure rubber, and can be procured in any 
shoe store or automobile repair shop. One 
side of the rubber is usually rough, the 
other smooth. 
With fine sandpaper scratch the rubber 
around the hole, to give the cement a 
chance to grip it. Apply the cement around 
the hole freely enough to cover the patch, 
and cover the patch with the cement also. 
Don’t make the mistake of pressing on the 
patch while the cement is thin. This will 
never make it stick or give finished work. 
Rather allow the cement on both the boot 
and the patch to become very sticky and al¬ 
most dry; then press the patch down firmly 
and, inserting a wooden block in the boot 
directly over the patch, tamp the patch down 
all around. This tamping should be kept 
up until the edges of the patch come down 
and fasten tightly to the rubber. After 
careful tamping, set the boot near a stove 
(not too close) and allow it to dry in mod¬ 
erate heat. 
If these directions are followed carefully 
the patched portion of the boot should be as 
strong and resisting as the rest of it. In 
fact, the patch and the portion around it 
will often outlast the boot. 
Most failures result from pressing down 
the patch when the cement is still thin and 
liquid. So be sure and wait until it is very 
sticky, and almost dry. 
Robert Page Lincoln. 
HOW TO BREED ANGLE WORMS 
G. S. Graves, a Minnesota reader of 
Forest and Stream, wants to know how to 
keep angleworns in a box, and raise them. 
He says he has tried it but has had poor 
success. 
Every fisherman should keep a worm box. 
And as not all of them know just how to 
go about it, I will give some few directions 
that should assure good results. 
The worm-box itself should be at least 
three or four feet square and should be of 
about the same depth. Don’t make the 
mistake of knocking out the bottom of the 
box and covering the whole bottom with 
window screen, as when the wire rots 
through the worms can get out. Further¬ 
more, when you dig down in the box—per¬ 
haps with a pitchfork—to get the worms, you 
often jab the wire and tear it. Result: 
the worms make their get-away. 
Rather leave the board bottom in place, 
and in one corner cut a small hole. To 
cover this cut out a double thickness of 
window screen and tack it well in place. 
Sink the box where the direct rays of the 
sun do not fall hot and heavy—a touch of 
sunshine at some time in the day is of course 
beneficial. At the side of a barn is a good 
place, where there is a half dampness in 
the earth. The box should be sunk two- 
thirds of its depth; one-third left up in the 
air. 
The earth placed in the box should be pure 
garden loam. Put in about six inches or 
so, then slip in a couple of hunks of sod. 
Cover this over and again add some sod, 
and so on until you get it nearly to the 
top. Select the choicest worms you can 
lay hands on, half females and half males. 
You can tell the males by the fact that they 
do not wiggle much, but are dull when 
you pick them up. The females wiggle 
the most and are the liveliest. 
The best time to get good worms is 
after a rain. Go out with a can and pick 
them up. Get only healthy, unscarred 
worms, and be careful to sort them out so 
as not to put in any dead ones. 
A can full of worms is enough. Put 
them in the box, and down they go to 
find the sod pieces. Sod is half the life of 
worms in a box and should be changed 
every two weeks at least. The best feed 
for the worms is a very simple one, com¬ 
posed of coffee grounds mixed with corn- 
meal. So save all your coffee grounds and 
set them aside. When feeding simply dig 
down into the earth and place some of 
the mixture here and there. The worms 
will learn to find these places in short or¬ 
der. Once a day at least the worms should 
thus be fed; if twice a day, be sure not 
to give too much: a couple of fists full is 
plenty for a day. 
Every two weeks the old earth should 
be dumped out, the worms picked out and 
new earth or loam put into the box, new 
sod pieces also being inserted. The box 
should never stand in the rain, but should 
have suitable protection. The reason for 
the screened hole in the bottom of the box, 
of course, is to let water drain out of it. 
To call up the worms dash a couple of dip¬ 
pers of water on the surface, not more. 
And this should be done once in a while 
to keep the earth moist. 
If you start in the spring with this idea 
you will have the best success, but June 
is almost as good. You will find that a 
couple of these boxes will supply you 
with an abundance of worms even in Au¬ 
gust, when worms are as scarce as hen’s 
teeth. Conducted on a larger scale, these 
worm boxes are a very paying proposi¬ 
tion, as around a resort the worms often 
sell for as high as twenty-five and fifty 
cents the dozen. In this manner, satisfying 
your own needs can be combined with an 
almost clear profit, if desired. For, fol¬ 
lowing these directions no one should have 
any trouble raising and keeping worms for 
fishing purposes. R. P- L. 
