Jan. 25, igoS.j 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
1 4 1 
;eparate taper is required. See Fig. 18. The 
'errules shown in Fig. 17 can also be used in 
Connection w r ith this reelseat (Fig. 18), as will 
>e explained in tbe proper place. 
For all single-hand fly- and bait-casting rods 
eelseats of three-quarter inch diameter are 
tandard, and seven-eighths or one inch for 
tedium weight salt water and salmon rods. In 
rdering reelseats, the diameter of the small end 
f taper must be specified. Generally these are 
5-32, V2 inch, 17-32 and 19-32 of an inch. 
Reelseats for fly-rods are like Fig. 18 with 
he exception that the bottoms are closed. For 
his purpose the taper is generally narrower. 
Stock buttcaps are generally of V\ inch diam- 
ter at the large end. For bait-casting rods, 
,hich should have rather full grasps, one inch 
5 a better diameter. I like the small hard rubber 
uttons made for tarpon rods, and hollow these 
ut so that they fit as a buttcap. They can, how- 
ver, be fitted flush against the cork of the hand- 
rasp without hollowing, and fastened on end 
f grasp with a screw. 
For light bait-casting rods it is nice to use 
FIG. l6. 
Reelseat for a Single Hand Grasp. 
full set of agate guides and an agate top, but 
this increases the cost too much use an agate 
ip and an agate guide nearest the reel, with 
ne-ring German silver guides for the balance 
f the set. There was a time when it was be- 
eved that large guides and tops were best, but 
: is now conceded that guides and tops of a 
aliber of 5-16 inch are large enough, safer and 
eater. There can be no question that large, 
eavy guides affect the action of the rod. The 
gate guide shown in Fig. 19 and the one-ring 
ierman silver guide pictured in Fig. 20 have 
roved as good as any so far used. They are 
ght, strong and efficient. The caliber of both 
> 5-16 inch. 
By all means employ an agate offset top made 
ke that shown in Fig. 21. In this there is a 
.are extending from the tube to the bottom of 
pmm 
iMUlUlUW 
- 
FIG. 17. 
Ferrules fcr a Separate Hand Grasp. 
he metal ring holding the agate, while the two 
ide wires prevent the line from catching around 
te guide, and strengthen it. The caliber is 5-16 
nch. The tube may be tapered or cylindrical. 
For fly-rods'the best guides are of hard steel, 
nake form, as shown in Fig. 22. These can 
e had in various sizes in the trade. In Fig. 
3 a steel top for fly-rods is shown. In this 
he ring is of the same form as the agates used 
or the same purpose, but the steel ring is made 
oose enough to turn in the wire that holds it, 
n order that it will not wear from the constant 
riction of the line. The wires are lashed to 
he rod tip with silk. The form shown in Fig. 
4 differs only in that these wires terminate in 
tube. Wires and tube are German silver. 
For guides and tops of fly-rods German silver 
s too soft and is soon cut in grooves by the 
friction of the line. Any mechanic can make 
these loose steel tops, or they can be purchased 
from the importers. Agate or steel tops, and 
steel guides, are necessary for tournament fly- 
rods. The hand guide should also be agate, 
as during the constant stripping in and shoot¬ 
ing of the line it is held at an angle to the rod, 
causing considerable friction and wear if the 
first or hand guide is steel. 
Novices who have access to machine tools can 
make guides and tops for both fly- and bait- 
fig. 18. 
Reelseat and Taper for a Double Hand Grasp. 
casting rods of hard steel and of the form shown 
in Figs. 19-24 inclusive. Steel is in every way 
adapted to guides and tops, and if neatly made 
they are light, strong and durable. Many 
novices make all of their rod fittings, and some 
of these are the best I have ever seen. Being 
unable to purchase steel tops for my single-hand 
and salmon fly-rods, I persuaded a fellow angler 
to make several steel tops for me, and these have 
proved very satisfactory in tournament casting. 
He has also made steel guides and tops for all 
his fly- and bait-casting rods, and his work shows 
what a novice can do if he has access to machine 
tools. 
Perhaps the best glue for use in the making 
of split bamboo rods, and for gluing corks and 
forms for handgrasps is Russian isinglass, ob¬ 
tainable in paint shops. Place the glue pot in 
a kettle of water over a slow fire. The glue pot 
FIG. 19. FIG. 20 . 
Agate Guide. One-ring German Silver Guide. 
should have wire legs or be elevated slightly, 
else it will rest on the bottom of the kettle and, 
the water being excluded from under the glue 
pot, the glue will burn. 
This glue should not be used a second time 
if you are very particular. Instead, clean the 
pot and prepare fresh glue each time it is to be 
used. Otherwise it can be warmed over two or 
three times. Russian isinglass is colorless and 
for this reason is used in glass signs and metal 
work where other substances would show. Order 
an ounce of it and try it before deciding to adopt 
it. It costs about forty cents an ounce, but this 
quantity will be sufficient for several rods. 
Much depends on how glue is prepared and 
used. The ordinary white glue of good quality 
is excellent, and if the glue joints of the rod are 
FIG. 21 . 
Agate Offset Top. 
perfect, the varnish will keep out water. Like 
all amateur rodmakers, I have made mistakes 
in handgrasps, etc., and have tried to rectify them 
by heating, steaming or soaking them, to separate 
the parts so that the changes might be made 
It is at such times that one learns with what 
obstinacy glue will resist attempts to separate 
parts joined with it. I have soaked a cork hand- 
grasp for three hours in steaming hot water 
without making the slightest impression on the 
glue, and have experimented with ordinary fish 
glue and prepared cements, all of which resisted 
severe treatment in a manner that surprised me. 
1 here are several prepared cements that arc 
excellent and cheap. All should be warmed, say 
in a cup of hot water. Most of them can be 
thinned with vinegar. They are perhaps inferior 
to the commercial glues that are soaked and pre¬ 
pared fresh each time they are to be used, but 
their handiness appeals to the novice. 
Much depends on how the glue dries in split 
bamboo. It should not become brittle and break 
when the rod springs, nor be too sensitive to 
moisture. 
1’errules can be seated with shellac, glue or 
various cements. I have found the cement known 
as Hercules very satisfactory. It is obtainable 
in the trade in twenty-five cent sticks. A very 
good article, known as the Fishing Gazette fer¬ 
rule cement, can be made as follows: 
Clear rosin, 1 ounce; boiled linseed oil, 1 
fig. 22. 
Hard Steel Snake Guide for Fly-rod, 
teaspoonful; gutta percha, 1 drachm. Melt to¬ 
gether, pour into water, and pull. 
I have used silk wax with satisfaction made 
after a formula given by the late John Harring¬ 
ton Keene. It is as follows: 
Best yellow rosin, 2 ounces; white beeswax, 
sliced, 1 drachm. 
Dissolve by slow heat and add 2J/2 drachms 
fresh unsalted lard. Stir for ten minutes, pour 
into water, and pull. It is to be wrapped in a bit 
of chamois skin and kept out of the dust. 
In this, as in the ferrule cement, it is well to 
rub your hands slightly with vaseline before tak¬ 
ing the wax out of the cold water, as otherwise 
it will adhere to the fingers at first. 
Another formula, which is recommended by 
Colonel R. F. Meysey-Thompson, in his “Ang¬ 
ling Catechism,” follows: 
Powdered white rosin, gum arabic and lano- 
line, one part each; or two parts rosin and no 
FIG. 23. FIG, 24. 
Steel Fly-rod Top, with Steel Fly-rod Top, 
loose Ring and Wires. with Tube. 
gum arabic. Simmer together until melted, add 
a few drops of essence of lemon, pour into cold 
water, pull and roll until of the proper con¬ 
sistency, when it can be cut into cakes and wrap¬ 
ped in chamois skin. If too soft, add rosin; 
if too hard, add lanoline. Obviously it must be 
kept free from dust. 
The best colorless substance obtainable for use 
in waxing silk thread for winding rods or mak¬ 
ing artificial flies is mentioned by the late Harry 
G. McClelland in his excellent little book “The 
Fly-dresser’s Cabinet of Devices.” It is made by 
melting together equal parts (bulk) of amber 
rosin and turpentine and pouring into collapsible 
metal tubes such as artists use. When a thread 
is to be waxed, a little of the liquid is squeezed 
out of the tube on the finger and thumb, between 
which the thread is passed several times. The 
