224 
HERAMIC STUDIO 
AN EASILY CONSTRUCTED BANDING WHEEL 
H. C. ter Meer. 
The banding wheel is one of the greatest time and 
labor saving devices used by the china decorator. But 
on account of the relatively high cost, very few amateurs 
possess one. This article is intended to show how a good 
wheel can be constructed easily and at a very low cost. 
The cost of the materials should not in any case exceed 
seventy-five cents, in most cases it will proJaably be con- 
siderablv less. 
BINDING Wheel.' 
The following materials are required — about six pounds 
of lead; this quantity is sufficient for a disk 7 inches in 
diameter and f" thick, (scrap lead from old lead pipe will 
do.) One strip of wood, preferably hard, f"xi^"xi8" 
long. One shallow tin cake or pie plate, having the same 
diameter as the desired disk. One 38 calibre short central 
fire cartridge shell with primer removed. Six inches of 
I" doweling. 
The disk is cast from lead in the following manner. 
Having obtained a tin plate about f " deep and of the desired 
diameter (seven inches is convenient size) paint the inside 
with a thick coat of whiting mixed with water and allow it 
to dry thoroughly. The whiting prevents the lead from 
adhering to the dish. When thorough^ dry, place the 
plate on a short piece of flat board placed on a level surface 
Be sure that the board on which the plate rests is level, 
as this will save time and labor later. Test with a level 
or another plate nearly full of water. If the board is not 
level, level it carefully by placing small wedges under it. 
Now proceed to melt the lead. This can be accomplished 
in a tin can without soldered joints or in any other suitable 
vessel. Skim the lead thoroughly and carefully pour it 
into the dry prepared plate. (If there is any water on the 
plate, when the lead is poured into it, an explosion will 
result, scattering the hot lead in all directions.) After 
the lead has solidified remove the disk from the plate, 
clean it thoroughly and also smooth the edges with fine 
sand paper. Now locate the center of the disk as exactly 
as possible and also select one surface for the top. Then 
drill a f" hole through the center of the disk just formed. 
If a metal drill is not at hand, an ordinary carpenter's 
bit may be used without damage to it. The disk is now 
ready to [be balanced. For this purpose a short round 
rod, say a piece of a piece of f inch doweling 3 inches long 
is thrust through the hole, so that an equal length of the 
rod projects on each side of the disk. The disk is now 
placed on parallel level edges about i^ inclies apart (for 
instance two books of the same height stood up on their 
ends,) in such a manner that the rod through the disk rests 
on the level edges as shown in Fig. 3. The disk will probably 
roll a little and then come to rest. If it does not roll, turn the 
disk slightly and see if it will remain in any position in 
which it is placed. When this is the case the disk is balanced 
If it does not remain in the position in which it is placed, 
mark the lowest point on the edge of the disk when it comes 
to rest. The disk is now scraped, filed or cut at this point 
on under surface. During this process the disk should 
be placed on the edges frequently, to test the balance. 
When the disk is balanced carefully force the cartridge 
shell into the hole in the disk from the top. This forms 
the bearing on which the wheel revolves. 
The base may be a piece of flat board 8 inches square 
and^l inches thick, or if a more pretentious base is desired, 
it can be constructed as shown in the drawing. It can be 
improved by fastening three round rubber knobs under 
it to serve as feet. The wood can be painted or stained 
and varnished as fancy may dictate. 
The disk revolves on a short piece doweling about 
i^ inches long glued in to the hole in the base. The pro- 
jecting end is sand papered smooth until it fits the cartridge 
shell easily. The rod may be lubricated with oil or vaseline. 
An improved bearing is shown in Fig. 2. 
51tt\. SVClCVt S 
CKinTOOat SHL\.L 
Finally a series of concentric circles may be painted 
on the disk as an aid in centering the china. When using 
the wheel care should be observed that it does not revolve 
too rapidly, or the china will be thrown off. 
^ -f 
THISTLES 
[RKPRINTED FROM OCTOBER, 1S99.] 
Jeanne M. Stewart. 
After sketching design, laj?^ in the background, .shading 
from Ivory Yellow to Blue Green and Shading Green. While 
the color is still open, wipe out design with clean brush, 
blending edges in shadow. Lights should be kept clear and 
white. Wash flowers in simply a mixture of Turquoise Green 
and light Violet of Gold; leaves of Yellow Green and Blue 
Green (light) with Olive, Shading and Brown Green in 
shadows, taking out high lights verj^ sharp and clear; Seed 
pods in Lemon Yellow, Yellow Ochre and Chestnut Brown ; 
shadow leaves in Grej^ for flower and Yellow Green. In sec- 
ond fire, work up design bj^ accenting shadows with same 
colors as in first painting, adding detail. For third fire, 
deepen background with Shading Green or Black Green, 
bringing color well over edges of design in shadow, blending 
softly into light tones with silk pad. When "color is almost 
dry and will not rub ofl', a fight dusting of powder color, with 
pad of cotton, will give depth and glaze. A few finishing 
accents may be added to leaves and flowers. 
