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ItERAMIC STUDIO 
color. The flesh is pale red and the border deep buff with 
ivory discs. 
No. 5 is a Sgraffito decoration. The background is 
peacock green. Both faces are painted in light sage, and 
the foremost face is painted on top in ivory, and the drapery, 
dress and pearls are in the same color. The hair of the 
back figure is painted chocolate, and the hair of foremost 
figure is buff, with head dress and drapery lilac. The out- 
line of all is scratched or incised. 
No. 6 is a stencilled tile, with background of stone color 
on dark green. The first stencil is the stone color, in which 
the conventional foliage is done, as is also the face. The 
second stencil is the drapery and head dress in pale blue 
green. The hair may either be done with a third stencil 
or painted in reddish brown. The outlines and eye and 
mouth can be incised to the ground or painted on top. 
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS 
Mrs. E. O. H. — Mix the gold for rubber monogram pad, the same as you 
do for any gold work. Take a little gold from your small slab and mix it on 
a larger one so you can spread it until you have a thin coat of it on the slab. 
Dip the pad into this, being careful that the gold covers it evenly and then 
press the pad on the china. 
B. M. T. — Treatment for Columbine pitcher on page 236 of March 
Magazine. Trace the design on the bowl then paint the light grey part of 
Columbine with a thin wash of Lemon Yellow and the darker part with Yel- 
low Brown to which has been added a very little of Fry's Grey for Flesh or a 
little Brown Green. For darkest part of design use two parts Yellow Green 
and one Grey for Flesh. .Stamen in buds the Yellow Brown mixture and also 
the caps. Bands in the Green. Second Fire — Outline with Fry's Grey for 
Flesh and wash a very light ivory tone background in with two parts Yellow 
Green and one of Yellow Brown. If the columbine comes out too yellow, put 
a thin wash of Brown Green over it. 
M. W. — 1. Fry's or Mason's Black, dry, dusted on will give you a highly 
glazed black; not necessary to use flux; give it a hard fire. 2. For mineral 
and gold colors see Miss Ehler's "First Lesson in China Painting" on page 226 
of the March number Keramic Studio. A little more flux can be added in 
some colors, but care should be taken not to use too much for it is apt to show 
in the tinting; when fired it may come out with small white spots showing in it. 
3. Lustres should be padded to get rid of the unevenness, for it will fire in 
streaks, except Opal and Mother of Pearl; these are most interesting if left 
uneven. 
Miss B. N. — In the May number we neglected to mention another firm 
carrying a complete line of the Seiji or Celadon ware, that of M. T. Wynne, 
39 W. 21st St., New York City. 
M. N. A. — Add a very little oil of clove to the English grounding oil; 
just about five or six drops to an ounce of the grounding oil. The turpentine 
will dry out and not do much good. 
E. T. — Was the green dusted on belleek ware when you had trouble with 
it? A great many kinds of green will turn yellowish on this ware. Fry's 
Moss Green will fire all right on it. 
PEA PLATE 
MARY BURNETT 
