RERAMIC STUDIO 
against the wall inside, or in place of chairs at the talale, for 
chairs are difficult to make and the beginner rarely, if ever, 
succeeds in making one both comfortable and pleasing in ap- 
pearance. The bench, as shown, is not easy to make, but it 
can be simplified, if desired, either by leaving out the straight 
braces, or by making them somewhat larger, placing them 
nearer the top and leaving out the cross pieces. Or a bench 
may be constructed like the stool, with a frame set in the stout 
legs. 
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The settle in 111. IV would be very attractive under a long 
window, and with a comfortable mattress might serve as an 
extra bed. If longer than 6 feet a foot should be placed in the 
center for additional support, or two, about i8 inches from 
either end. The frame can be mortised in the legs, or set in 
an angle cut out as in 111. I, which is easier. 
The boards used in connection with these rustic pieces may 
be pine, spruce or hemlock, or whatever is most available; and 
they may be left as they come from the mill or planed, as seems 
most in harmony with the general finish. In either case, a 
stain will add wonderfully to the beauty of the result. With 
the delicate white birch a clear, soft leaf green, or a not very 
dark grey-green will be delightful. For woods with brown 
bark the boards may be stained brown to match, or they maj^ 
be leaf green or bronze green. 
Illustrations V, VI and VII are suggestions for "plank" 
furniture, and the variations possible are almost endless. 
When carefully proportioned, built and stained, it is very use- 
ful and pleasing. I would not advise the use of boards wider 
than 15 or 16 inches, and joining two narrow planks increases 
the difficulty very much. Ten to 12 inches is deep enough for 
the book-shelves; 12 to 14 for the bench and 15 for the wash- 
stand. There are various ways in which these pieces may be 
joined; the blind mortise and tenon, which is difficult and does 
not offer anj' advantage over the use of dowels, either blind or 
coming through, as pegs; and the keyed mortise and tenon, 
which though most difficult of all, adds much to the appearance 
of this particular type of furniture. It is strong and practical 
in pieces that are not much moved about, in which case the 
pegs may work loose. 
A set of shelves like 111. VII, but 20 to 30 inches across the 
front, and with doors in the upper part and curtains below, 
makes a very good chiffonier to go with the washstand. In 
the three pieces drawn I have shown various ways of shap- 
ing the feet and brackets, and there are many more; but all 
curves that go across the grain would need a compass saw. 
Curves with the grain can be made with a stout knife or draw 
knife. An inverted V, more or less obtuse, can be used at the 
foot, and ran be made with the ordinary cross-cut saw. 
The bed in ill. VIII is made with 4 inch scjuares and the 
frame about i inch thick and from 4 to 6 inches wide. It 
may be mortised in and pegged or it may be dowelled, or set in 
an angle cut out as in the stool, ill. I. A stout piece screwed or 
nailed diagonally across the comer will make a support for 
springs; or an inch square strip may be fastened at the bottom 
of the sides on which slats may rest. Ill IX shows two ways 
of making a simple couch or cot without head or foot. 
