THE CRAFTS 
WOOD CARVING AND PYROGRAPHY. LEATHER AND METAL. BASKETRY, ETC. 
Under the management of Miss Emily Peacock, 262 Ryerson St,, Brooklyn, N. Y. All inquiries in regard to the various Crafts 
are to be sent to the above address, but ivill be ansivered in the magazine under this head. 
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MAKING A STAINED GLASS WINDOW 
Henry L. Parkhurst 
CONTINUED. 
After all the leads and glass are in place, solder all the 
joints on one side first, and then turn the piece over and do 
the other side. When turning the piece over, remove the slats 
at one end and at the near side, and slip the piece out half way 
over the edge of the tahle. Then turn it riglit up on edge 
grasping it in the middle or at the ends, turn it over holding it 
upright, and slip it back on the table. Be careful in handling 
a piece of leaded glass, never to take it up flatwise, for it will ha 
found to be like a piece of paper, limp and easily broken. 
Leaded glass is never strong imtil it has been set in place for 
some time and the cement or putt^- allowed to harden, and the 
lead to stiffen. 
Before soldering the joints, rub them over with resin or 
candle grease. Care should be taken when appljdng the solder 
to put on only enough to hold the joint together firmlj^ and to 
have the appearance of a well soldered joint. But do not make 
the spot of solder large and prominent unless you wish it. 
And then do it onty when you wish to give a broad effect of 
drawing to the design. You should also see that the spot of 
solder is felt smooth on the surface. And to do this, hold the 
iron fiat against the joint for an instant, and then drag it off 
in the direction of the length of the lead. 
When the soldering is all completed, the window is ready 
for cementing or puttying. The cement or putty can be made 
of white lead loosened up and made thin with boiled linseed oil 
and whitening, and should be mixed up in a quantity in a pail. 
In applying it, take up about a handful or two on the end of the 
cement brush, and spread it over the glass pretty much as if 
you were scrubbing a floor. In rubbing it against the flanges 
of the leads the brush will push the cement under them. Do 
this on both sides of the window, and when j'-ou have gone over 
both surfaces, sprinkle a little dry whitening to clean off the 
surplus oil and puttj^ and rub off with a rag. When this is 
done, lay the window' flat on a shelf, or stand it up against the 
wall or some boards, with something against it in front to keep 
it in shape. 
After the cement has hardened, the window can be placed 
in its sash. Use small triangular glass fasteners or brads 
(Fig. I It) to keep it in place firmlj^ and finish with putty in 
Fig Hi: 
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Design for window in stained glass. 
the rabbet. If the window is large enough for Ijars, their 
positions should be located before the glass is placed in the sa.sh. 
Where they cross the glass, place one or more copper wires 
soldered to the leads, and left with the ends two or three inches 
long loose. The ends of the rods are to be embedded in the in- 
side edge of the sash, and to do this, bore holes for them with 
the carpenter's bit and auger. One hole .should be deeper than 
the opposite one, so that the rod when slipped into it can pass 
the edge of the sash on the opposite side, and slip into its 
hole. ^Vllell the rods are in place put in the glass, and turn 
