220 
ftERAMIC STUDIO 
the work itself is not easily injured and the saws are inex- 
pensive. It should be mentioned here that the saw must be 
frequently lubricated with kerosene applied either with a 
small splint of wood or with a feather. Beeswax also can 
be used. 
When the management of the tool is understood, 
metal one-eighth of an inch in thickness can be cut easily. 
Combs for the hair and belt buckles of heavy copper, in 
simple cut work designs are charming. 
The conventional design on book ends, 111. No. i , lends 
itself equally well to cut work. The parts of the design 
which in this illustration are beaten down, might be sawed 
out instead. For these ends which must be firm use metal 
of greater thickness, 20 or 22 gauge. 
Candlesticks can be made of three-fourths inch, 26 
gauge seamless tubing. To form the feet or base the tube 
is slotted with a file or fret saw. With a pair of flat nose 
pliers extend these feet so that the base is broadened. The 
candle socket is expanded by twisting any round hard in- 
strument in it. 
The bobeche and handle are cut from a flat piece of metal, 
a hole is cut in bobeche the exact size of tube filed and 
slipped on before the nozzle is expanded, which will keep 
it in place. The bobeche is the little saucer like receptacle 
intended to catch the candle grease. The handle is riveted 
to the tube. Tall slender vases may be made in the same 
way using tubing correspondingly larger in circumference. 
Summary of tools and materials : Saw frame and saws, 
steel punches blunt, drill, saw board, wooden or rawhide 
mallet, metal. 
The following in the order of their difficulty is a list of 
the articles that may be made in metal: Finger plates, 
escutcheons, false hinges, blotter ends, door plate, name 
plate, trays, photo frames, mirror frames, boxes, chests, 
flower pot covers, fern dish holder, sconces, candle shades, 
lamp shades, jardinieres, candlesticks, vases, belt buckles, 
mountings for bag, pen holders, casserole covers, lanterns, 
fire screens, bellows. 
CUT BRASS 
For this work a metal hand-saw will be needed. They 
retail for sixty cents and the small saws come in sets of 
twelve for ten cents a set. It will also be necessary to have a 
saw board, which in shape greatly resembles a boot-jack. 
Screw this securely to the edge of the work table. By this 
means the work is supported at both sides of the board over 
the opening, while the metal is firmly held. It can also be 
turned about in any direction to conform to the movement 
of the saw as it follows the pattern to be cut. In the sconce 
111. No. 2 there is a combination of pierced and cut work. 
The cut part is not intricate however. It would be advis- 
able though to practice first with some small scraps of 
metal. Trace the form to be cut out, with a fine brush 
charged with India ink or black water-color. Punch a 
hole just inside the space to be sawed out. Take the saw 
in the frame, unscrew one end which should be threaded 
through the hole. Readjust the saw, screwing so that it is 
quite taut and by a vertical movement up and down, follow 
the line of the pattern, sawing out the entire piece. When 
one section is finished it will be necessary to again unscrew 
the saw and thread through another part in the same way. 
There is quite a knack in managing this tool. Many 
saws may be broken before dexterity is acquired, but, 
nearly every one has the same experience. Fortunately 
ANSWERS TO INQUIRIES 
J. H. — A short article on Repousse was given in the December number 
of 1903. We hope to have an article on the making of bowls in metal very 
soon. 
E. B. — Try using Devoe and Raynolds Indelible Tapestry dyes for your 
leather, they claim its adaptability for that medium. 
