296 
RERAMIC STUDIO 
At the foot of the table a tub of rather hot water is 
placed, together with a swab of cloth, or a swale. 
Each part of the mould warmed upon the stove, is 
sufficiently heated when a drbp of water thrown upon it 
crackles and evaporates. Another test is made by apply- 
ing a piece of cold pewter, and if this melts, the mould is too 
hot, and must be allowed to cool somewhat. 
With a light stroke of the mallet the workman fastens 
to the stem of each section a short, rounded piece of wood, 
which allows the part to be handled easily. Then each sec- 
tion, when warmed, is drawn near the vessel containing the 
glaze, and coated quickly with the solution of ochre; 
shapes, caps and funnels or necks, care being taken 
to make the coating of the same thickness on the flat sur- 
faces as in the hollows. To do this a hard brush will be 
found serviceable. 
Now the workman quickly puts the mould together 
without striking the pieces; taking first the principal core; 
the stem of the shape lying on the table. Then, putting 
the pieces in the frame, each in the place which it is to oc- 
cupy, he covers the whole with the caps that is, the 
core of the foot of the goblet. Next, rapidly turning the 
pieces on one another,he makes sure that they fit precisely 
and he tightens the whole with pincers, or clamps, accord- 
ing to the nature and the form of the mould. He places 
Fig. 24 — Example of pincers applied to the mould of a spoon (from Salmon's treatise, 
1788). aa, pincers; be, handle; C, dowel; AB, mould, opened; D, pewter proof as 
it comes out of the mould. 
the mould so that the neck or funnel is at the top, and 
that the pewter may be easily poured into it. The mould 
is kept on the bench in the correct position as above in- 
dicated. With his free hand the workman takes a ladle 
large enough to contain the metal necessary for one object, 
and he dips it into the molten mass, which has been thor- 
oughly purged of foam and left bright and clear. Resting 
the spout of the ladle upon the edge of the neck, he fills 
the mould until the metal reaches the surface. He waits a 
few moments, and if the metal sinks by thickening, he adds 
to it. He pours what remains in the ladle back into the 
crucible and lays the former upon the circular table. Now, 
taking the swab and squeezing from it the surplus warm 
water, he applies it first on one side and then on the other 
of the mould, especially at the juncture of the neck with 
the object, since that is the hottest part. This he continues 
to do for some time, tapping over the whole mould. The 
cooling process may be accomplished also by compressed 
air brought through a tube ending in a nozzle. 
The cooling is indicated at the mouth of the funnel, or 
neck, when the pewter loses its brilliancy and whitens. 
Illus. No. 56 — Pewterer pouring pewter into the mold of a tray^held by pincers 
(from Salmon's Treatise, 1788). 
The casting is finished. 
If the moulds are small, they can be held between the 
knees of the founder. This manner of casting is employed 
for casting spoons. 
(TO BE CONTINUED) 
•f & 
ANSWERS TO INQUIRIES 
Horn is carved with gravers. Look for the grain and before working 
soak it for several minutes in very hot water. Carve your design on the 
curved side, it will be easier to shape. Tortoise shell can be bought in blanks 
, the size and shape the comb is to be. It is carved also with gravers, a metal 
saw is also used the same way as for metal. A maker of tortoise shell combs 
will polish and shape the comb. He will also cut the teeth in it much more 
easily having all the proper equipment. The tortoise shell must be kept in 
salted water for a time before it is carved. 
Mrs. C. F. O. — Try the recipes given for making colors in the article on 
Batiks, by Theo Neuhuys, in the May issue, 1907. They are non -fading and 
I should think could be used with a block. 
M. I. — Ivory can be dyed by any of the ordinary methods used for silk 
and wool, though it must be perfectly clean before it is put into the dye bath. 
When it is taken out of the boiling hot dye it should be plunged immediately 
into cold water to prevent the chance of fissures being caused by the heat. 
Bone for ornamental purposes is treated in the same way. 
Mrs. F. J. M — Niello or black inlay for metals comes in sticks like seal- 
ing wax. Send to J. Kricue, 88 John St., New York City. If he cannot sup- 
ply you he probably can tell you who can. 
T. C. C. — Soft copper and brass can be obtained from Patterson Bros., 
Park Row, New York City or Hungerford U. T. Brass & Copper Co., Pearl and 
Park streets, New York City. 
M. B., East Liverpool — The tjanting or wax vessel spoken of in the 
article on Batiks is made of brass. * It is not probable that they are made in 
this country, but a tinsmith could make one from the illustrated sketch in 
the May Issue. He could better tell you about the cost of it. 
*" «** 
SAGITTARIA (Page 277) 
(Photograph by Helen Pattee) 
Henrietta Barclay Paist 
THE Sagittaria (Arrowhead Lily) flower is pure white 
with yellow center. For the panel a soft greenish 
grey, made by tinting delicately over a grey tint with Moss 
Green, will make a pleasing background. 
