166 
FOREST AND STREAM 
March, 1918 
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN CANVAS CANOE 
PRACTICAL DETAILS AND LUCID EXPLANATIONS OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE 
LIGHTEST AND MOST EFFICIENT CRAFT FOR USE ON RAPIDS AND SHALLOW WATERS 
A T one time I lived near the Saddle 
River in Northern New Jersey. This 
small stream averaged 16 feet in 
width and 4 feet in depth. It flowed in a 
southerly course at a low rate of speed, 
probably 4 miles per hour. There were 
so many choice fishing “holes” that I could 
not reach, only by endless miles of walk¬ 
ing, that I decided to build a light craft 
and picked the canoe as the lightest and 
most efficient. This I estimated could be 
portaged or transported over fallen trees, 
rapids and shallow water more readily than 
the heavy row boat. 
I have built many canvas canoes and 
have always adhered to my original design 
which is now at least 15 years old and I 
have found that all of the crafts I built 
were sturdy, swift and safe. The dete¬ 
rioration is slight as the canvas only has 
By PRENTICE P. AVERY. M. E. 
to be changed in event of wear on stones, 
sticks and running rapids or ordinary 
“wear and tear.” The tacks are easily re¬ 
moved with a tack puller, filed to sharp 
edges. The canvas is replaced with new 
and new copper tacks are used to refasten 
it to the frame. 
The construction of a home made can¬ 
vas canoe is as follows:—Procure from a 
lumber yard, 4 lengths of i"x2" clear 
spruce, 16 feet to 18 feet long, also 16 
pieces of l /±" x 1 %" x 16' to 18' long (lat¬ 
tice) of pine or cypress, and enough ordi¬ 
nary barrel hoops to center them every 6 
inches. Nail these securely to keel and 
gunwales with copper nails, or make a job 
by boring 54" holes with hand drill or brace 
and screwing in galvanized iron screws 
3/16" diameter x i(4” long. 
The stern and bow posts are of size and 
construction shown, and of good dry and 
sound wood. All members attached to 
these posts are to be centered and evenly 
spaced, the holes drilled as above men¬ 
tioned and the keel and longitudinal strips 
fastened thereto by brass screws counter¬ 
sunk 1/64", so that the canvas will not 
chafe against the sharp edges of the nail or 
the crew. Fill in with putty and after the 
frame is assembled cover all with a good 
thick coat of best spar varnish (“outside” 
or marine varnish). 
Brace all corners, such as keel to posts, 
etc., with x i"x 3" x 3" iron braces or 
brackets with four 3/16" countersunk holes 
drilled in same. Screw them fast with 
brass screws, and after all are in tight, tip 
the entire frame on end and by placing a 
piece of 2" x 4" lumber 5' long or so, under 
its center, shake it roughly with a man at 
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34“ 
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TOP VIEV/-OR, PLAN. 7 ’A? 4 "-/" TfiicP. 
