March, 1918 
FOREST AND STREAM 
167 
each end, bear¬ 
ing down, at the 
same time on 
the bow and 
stern, then roll 
it over, and 
while not try¬ 
ing to break it 
“bump it good,” 
after which 
lon/aiiuc//nd/ 
sere 'ft f/cf/Te. 
"A /4 ’ £&/)<//reft. 
s//c//ftg 
tighten up on 
all screws and 
braces. This 
makes a con¬ 
s'truction 
of more rigid¬ 
ity and will not 
u 1 t i m a t e 1 y 
wrinkle the 
canvas. 
Next sand¬ 
paper all over 
and stretch on 
a good quality 
duck or heavy 
canvas, stretch¬ 
ing on tightly and tacking down every /% 
inch. Use 2 pieces, one for each side from 
center ©f keel to gunwale top, cross lap¬ 
ping full width of keel and place 3 rows 
of tacks straight along same. Lay on your 
keel strip and top strips (after giving 3 
coats best linseed oil), and apply 2 coats 
best American lead and oil of color de¬ 
sired. Light strips of aluminum are run 
on the ends to prevent damage, but are 
not ecessary on the bottom as the keel 
amply protects the bottom. 
Light seats are made of old wicker chair 
'/////A " a 
1X2 Spruce 
Barrel Hoops 
Copper 
nen/5 
%/o jDoc/r. 
OR. /=?A) V 
(fOO d CdftV&S 
&p>jp/y JT cor? 
X/erst //ftseec/ o// 
/eae/ of c-o/or /o 3 oj 6* 
“cane,” laced onto i"xi > 4 " oak cross 
pieces. Provide 2 cross braces of i"x2" 
cypress from gunwale to gunwale secured 
to same by 1/16" x J4" x 2" x 2" brackets 
screwed in place by //' x Y screws. Space 
these about equidistant, dividing the length 
of canoe by 3 and using these points for 
centers of the cross braces. 
De fe// of side 
'G uft wa/e n 
/7&//s over. 
u 
SE copper, galvanized or brass, tacks, 
screws or brackets throughout. In 
stretching on the canvas tack down 
a little at a time and endeavor to make it 
/x 2 
Gunwa/e 
zf f ''A /;? "A /<?." 
'ey6 ^/-oo/(?5 for s/&t£. 
/"X£Sproce.. 
Garre'/ 
//am m ers 
Retail 
Typical 
Oounders/r?/ 6 . 
s 6 re to/j s 
OP Neel- 
ASSENBLY. 
OY6A. 
“drum tight.” Allow each coat of linseed 
oil to dry thoroughly, before applying the 
next one. Light brackets may be provided 
on each side (inside) for carrying guns, 
paddles, etc., in case of portage. If the 
ribs (barrel hoops) are too stiff, boil them 
for )4 hour in water and then apply, hav¬ 
ing previously drilled the holes. 
I also found that in paddling up stream 
a small “leg-of-mutton” sail helped me 
wonderfully, so I made a clamp of i/i6"x 
7 /i" iron on the top center front of the for¬ 
ward (or rear) seat and fastened a block 
of wood 3" x 3" x 4" to the keel directly 
'oops centered under its center line, then drilled 
a hole in the block 1" diameter and in¬ 
serted a “mast” made of an old long rake 
handle, drilling a 3/16" hole 6" from top 
and one 12" from bottom. The top hole 
held the sail up and the bottom hole was 
for slipping in a %" bolt with nut to keep 
mast from coming out. All this rigging 
was quickly put up and as quickly taken 
down. Steering is by the paddle. The sail 
should not be over 5 feet at the base by 5 
feet high, unless an outrigger seat is used 
to counter-balance in strong winds. For 
the sail, use a light duck. The swinging 
“boom” or bottom piece is Y diameter 
good clear grain spruce, and sail is 
hemmed with strong thread, and secured 
to mast and boom by heavy fish line 
wrapped around every 3". 
)/ A good “hold fast line” to the bank i» 
accomplished by carrying enough rope (Y&" 
hemp) to wrap around a convenient tree 
or root and return to a 2 prong cleat, 
screwed fast to the gunwale inside, front 
and back. For long trips carry a piece of 
light waterproof cloth, rubber covered, 
(continued on page 179) 
