214 
FOREST AND STREAM 
April, 1918 
WHY’S AND HOW’S OF DRY FLY FISHING 
THE FIRST OF A SERIES OF TIMELY ARTICLES ON VARIOUS PHASES OF 
THIS FASCINATING ART BY AN ANGLER OF WIDE AND VARIED EXPERIENCE 
By R. L. M. (CALIFORNIA) 
D RY flv fishing consists of presenting 
to the fish the best possible imita¬ 
tion of the natural insect on which 
the fish is feeding, and presenting this 
imitation in a natural manner. On the 
other hand most of 
the authorities on 
wet fly fishing, when 
speaking or writing 
about it, generally 
use the terms, when 
referring to the mo¬ 
tion of the fly in the 
water, as a “lifelike” 
motion. 
The Ephcmcridcr, 
to which family the 
majority of flies on 
which fish feed be¬ 
long do not, when 
on the surface of the 
water, make any 
perceptible motions. 
They either float 
down the surface 
with erect wings, 
when in the dun or 
sub-imago stage of 
their existence; or 
else as spent gnats or 
imago, they float 
w i t h their wings 
spread out on the 
surface. Therefore to 
successfully imitate 
nature it is not de¬ 
sirable to try to im¬ 
part a “lifelike” mo¬ 
tion to the fly. 
Dry fly fishing be¬ 
ing to a certain ex¬ 
tent an exact branch 
of the art of fishing, 
it calls for implements or tackle of a spe¬ 
cial type. 
The average distance that the fly is 
thrown or cast, is longer in dry fly, than 
in wet fly fishing. One reason of this is 
that the water on which one uses the dry 
fly is never as swift, or with such a ruffled 
surface as in wet fly fishing; consequently 
the fisherman has to conceal himself more 
carefully, and frequently the concealment 
obtainable is only indirect concealment; 
vis, by removing himself to a distance from 
the fish he is trying to catch. The rod 
used in dry fly fishing should be more 
powerful than that used for wet fly work. 
Drying the fly, preparatory to making a 
cast, is accomplished by making 3 or 4 
false casts in the air. This entails more 
work from the rod than making the actual 
cast itself. Therefore the rod should be 
made strong enough to stand the strain of 
continually throwing a line backwards and 
forwards in the air. 
It is not-every manufacturer of fly rods 
who can turn out a good dry fly rod. 
Without actually putting the rod together 
and trying it out in actual casting, it is 
not easy to tell whether the rod is a real 
dry fly rod. Therefore if without previous 
knowledge, the purchaser has to rely on the 
statements of the catalog or salesman, or 
on the reputation of the maker. 
There are certain manufacturers of fly 
rods whose reputation is such that a pur¬ 
chaser feels perfectly safe in ordering a 
dry fly rod from their catalog description, 
knowing that he will get what he wants. 
If the purchaser of a dry fly rod is un¬ 
able to try the rod out in actual casting, 
he can put it together in the store and 
note the following features: First the de¬ 
flection of the rod from the horizontal, 
with no weight attached to the end, or 
“free deflection.” If no vise is handy in 
which to hold the rod while this measure¬ 
ment is being made, it can be done in the 
following manner: 
After the rod is put together have the 
handle held firmly on top of a flat show 
case; it will be necessary to block it up 
with spare catalogs or other matter, but 
get the rod laid out horizontally and held 
firmly by the handle in that position. Then 
look along the rod from the butt end and 
note .the spot at which the end of the rod 
would be if it did not bend at all (deflect). 
Now measure the distance from this point 
to the point or tip of the rod, and this is 
known as “Deflection pull.” 
Hang a r oz. and a 2 oz. weight on the 
rod tip and measure -heir respective de¬ 
flections. 
The final test is to count the vibrations, 
which is done as follows: 
Hold the rod firmly in a horizontal posi¬ 
tion and press down on the rod near the 
handle and start the rod vibrating up and 
down; when the rod is vibrating in a 
regular manner get 
out your watch and 
count the number of 
vibrations per min¬ 
ute. 
In Fig. 1 I have 
drawn carefully the 
curves assumed by 
two different rods, 
under the above tests, 
together with the 
other data relating to' 
these rods. 
Rod A is a very 
perfect dry fly rod 
made by a manufac¬ 
turer with a world¬ 
wide reputation. Rod 
B is a good example 
of the ordinary fly 
rod of commerce. 
There is not a very 
startling amount of 
difference between 
these two sets of 
tests; but as soon as 
one handles these 
rods one at once no¬ 
tices the great differ¬ 
ence in their respect¬ 
ive actions. 
The late Mr. F. M. 
Halford, who was re¬ 
garded as the dean of 
dry fly fishermen in 
England, used a-rod 
with the follow¬ 
ing specifications: 
Length—9 ft., 6)4 inches, Model 1912. 
Weight, including spear.. 8 oz., 14 drams 
Deflection free . 5)4 inches 
Deflection with 1 oz. 16 inches 
Deflection with 2 oz. 25)4 inches 
Number of vibrations per minute.... 104 
It will be noticed that Mr. Halford’s rod 
is heavier than seems absolutely neces¬ 
sary. One reason of this is that a heavier 
line is used; it makes the actual feat of 
casting easier; but there is an extra effort 
on account of the greater weight. Con¬ 
sequently fatigue in the muscles doing this 
work will be experienced quicker than if 
lighter implements were used. 
An earlier rod of Mr. Halford’s was 
as follows: 
Length—9 ft., 6 J A inches, Model 1903. 
Weight with spear. ii) 4 oz. 
Deflection free . 5^ inches 
Deflection with 1 oz. i 6)4 inches 
Deflection with 2 oz. 25)4 inches 
Number of vibrations per minute.... 106 
The foregoing tests and data should en¬ 
able the beginner to choose a good dry 
fly rod, but to my mind the best way to 
get a really first class dry fly rod is to 
order one from one or other of those 
manufacturers whose reoutation is the 
/Defifct'on free 
_6 '*■ 
3 - 94 '”. 
f/c./. 
S&/7 
1 
