July, 1918 
I 
F ORES T A N D S T R E A M 
421 
them in place upon a good bed of mortar, 
and build the first tier all around with a 
brick facing on the inside of the back and 
side walls. (See Figure I.) Continue to 
build, exercising care that the stone does 
not touch the brick work, but leaves a joint 
at least one inch wide to receive the mor¬ 
tar which must be thin enough to find its 
way into all crevices. In constructing the 
brick lining, do not allow it to be bound 
ir. with the main parts of the wall, but all 
through the process anticipate that the brick 
wall will eventually burn out, especially 'A 
the back about 16 inches from the bottom 
where the hottest flame will strike, and 
that repairs will have to be made without 
disturbing the main wall. 
Build the first foot above the floor level 
perpendicular all around. After that the 
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back wall must be brought forward a little 
with each course so that at 30 inches from 
the bottom it may meet the flange of the 
throat damper. (See Fig. 2.) This is best 
done by fixing boards, tilted at the proper 
angle, in front of the brick lining at the 
back. The front piers may be built to their 
full height of 30 inches before the back 
part has been completed. In this way the 
throat damper may be temporarily set in 
place so as to assist in setting the boards 
inches of the iron bars will now rest on 
each pier and they are thick enough to 
prevent any weight from bearing on the 
front flange of the damper when the front 
wall is built. Now replace the throat dam¬ 
per and draw it forward until it touches 
the iron bars. The flange is about 3 inches 
wide, which with the three inch iron bars it 
touches makes about 6 inches in front of 
the throat. In this way the heat will be 
thrown well forward. 
You will notice by diagram 2 that the 
inside of the front wall starts from a com¬ 
paratively narrow base, and widens to 12 
inches at a height of 3 feet above the bars. 
Take care in placing the first row of 
stones across the iron bar to see that the 
inner edge is so cut away that no weight 
bears upon the flange of the damper The 
second row will not in¬ 
terfere at all, and after 
that it is plain sailing, 
until the mantel line is 
reached. All that is nec¬ 
essary for mantel sup¬ 
ports are two short 
pieces of 4 x 4 or 6 x 
6. Build these two into 
the wall the same as 
you would a stone, be¬ 
ing sure, however, that 
they do not come near 
the flue and that they 
are on a perfect level 
with each other. A foot 
in the wall will give a 
sufficient hold and 10 
inches outside will be 
wide enough to support 
a 12 inch shelf. The 
shelf itself may be any 
width desired, and the 
height is also a matter of taste. 
I F you find that the stone at your disposal 
is rough and uneven, do not be discour¬ 
aged. Remember all you need is one 
even side—the inside. It does not matter if 
the outside of the wall is uneven,—it will 
look all the more pictureseque and natural, 
but the flue that is to direct the smoke to 
the outside must be just as neat and 
smooth as you can get it. 
Fig. 1 
Fig. 3 
in proper position. When the walls have 
been raised to a level of 30 inches all 
around, remove the damper and place across 
the front, spanning the space from pier to 
pier the two pieces of iron mentioned above, 
one placed directly upon the other. Three 
Lime Mortak 
I have taken it for granted that cement 
mortar is to be used, but there is no reason 
why lime would not do as well. It has the 
disadvantage that it is more bulky, and 
when transportation is a question, as in my 
own case, the odds are all against it. It 
has one very great advantage, however, in 
that it is worked much 
easier than cement mor¬ 
tar. It is also cheaper 
and will keep for weeks 
after being mixed. 
Getting Large Stones 
in Position 
A M assuming, o f 
course, that the build¬ 
ing of the chimney is 
to be a single handed job. If help can be 
secured, so much the better, but there is 
nothing in the work described that cannot 
be done by any person who can lift 50 or 
60 pounds and who is not scared to stand 
a few feet above the ground. Very little 
scaffolding is required to build a chimney 
. in an ordinary summer cottage, for the 
roof will not likely be more than 8 or 9 
feet high, and as soon as you get up near 
it you can work from above. A couple of 
stout logs of equal length placed with one 
end on the 
ground and 
the other on 
the chimney 
wall or on 
the roof a 
foot apart, 
fastened to¬ 
gether with 
one inch 
boards, will 
make an ex¬ 
cellent ladder 
on which to 
roll the larger 
stones, and if 
they are long 
enough t o 
reach out 
about 10 or 12 
feet from the 
wall at the 
bottom, it will 
afford a very 
easy grade to 
carry up the 
mortar and 
smaller 
stones. (See 
Fig. 3.) 
CROSS SECT I on 
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Fig. 2 
T HE height of the chimney depends 
largely on the surroundings. It 
seems necessary to get above the 
highest peak of the cottage in order to 
prevent smoking. I tried first at a height 
of 2 feet above the roof at the point 
where the chimney came through, which 
happened to be the lowest part of the 
roof. This gave satisfaction for a time 
and I was about to consider the job com¬ 
plete, when a strong breeze came from the 
East which sent an occasional puff of 
smoke down the flue. Then I built it up 
level with the peak and since that time it 
has worked perfectly under all weather 
conditions. It is well to place a cement 
cap at the top, and that is best done by 
constructing it of concrete in the exact po¬ 
sition it is to occupy. It will be necessary 
to make a rough board frame, taking care 
to have it water tight until set. 
(continued on page 439) 
