61 
ebruary, 1923 
IG FOR THE BARNEGAT SNEAKBOX 
HOW TO BUILD A SAILING OUTFIT AND OTHER ACCESSORIES 
NEEDED FOR CRUISING IN THIS POPULAR LITTLE BOAT 
By DWIGHT S. SIMPSON 
fN the December number I 
told how to build a Barne- 
[ gat sneakbox and I now 
submit the sail plan with 
ketches of the various fittings 
et to be made to complete the 
ig for cruising. 
The rudder is made of 1" 
ak chamferred off to a feather 
dge all around the blade to 
ninimize resistance. To the 
ipper part rivet two cheek 
)ieces, to form a mortise for 
he end of the tiller. This 
trticle is also made from 1" 
iak about 2pY' wide at the rud- 
ler and gracefully curved and 
jape red to 1" square at the 
)ther end, where it is finally 
nade eight-sided for a grip. 
It should project about a foot 
nto the cockpit. It is not 
fastened to the rudder but 
( Itted with some taper so that 
while it can be driven in solid, 
ft is also easy to knock out. 
Two heavy screw eyes are put 
into the forward edge of the 
rudder and two into the stern 
of the boat, when a rod slipped 
through all four will hold the 
rudder in place. 
The centerboard is made of 1" oak 
chamfered off below the hull. Some 
ballasting effect can be secured if the 
“board” is made of 3/16" steel or brass 
plate (the slot and trunk will be nar¬ 
rower), but it should be cut out “U” 
shaped in the trunk to lighten it. In 
either case two cleats are riveted along 
the upper edge to keep it from slipping 
through the case and to provide means 
of drawing it out. 
The dimensions of the mast and boom 
are given in the sail plan. 1 hey should 
be made of spruce if possible. Failing 
this, fir, white pine or yellow pine may 
be used. They should be round and 
straight of course. The boom may be 
held to the mast with a pair of jayvs or 
better by a large screw eye in the mast 
and a hook in the end of the boom. This 
hook will have to be made, as it should 
be long in the nose and have a hole 
through it for a cotter pin to keep it 
from coming out. 
We can even make the sail ourselves 
out of 6 oz. tent cloth or heavy sheeting. 
The dotted lines show the seams.. These 
are formed by lapping the two pieces of 
cloth about an inch and running two 
rows of stitching, one along each edge. 
If the cloth is fifty or sixty inches wide 
it should be looped over along the middle 
and a “fake” seam put in for strength 
purposes. At the three corners and at 
the ends of the reef row an extra piece 
of cloth should be stitched on each side 
of the sail, after which it must be 
rope about 3/16" diameter and 
two feet long. Round eyes are 
worked in the sail and stitched 
like button holes. Then the 
ropes are put in and fastened 
at their middles. Whip the 
ends with thread or string so 
they will not ravel. 
The jib is roped like the 
mainsail except that instead of 
thimbles lashed to the rope 
along the edge, we use large 
snap hooks. These can be 
purchased for the purpose but 
if you can get only harness 
hooks fasten them on so that 
a rope can be run through 
parallel to the sail rope. There 
are neither thimbles or hooks 
along the bottom. 
W E are now ready to rig 
the boat. We need three 
straps of iron or brass about 
y & " x 1" x 8" long. Drill a 
half inch hole close to one end 
of each strap and file the end 
round to correspond. Then 
drill and countersink three 
holes for No. 12 screws toward 
the other end of each strap. 
auuui cm iiic.ii w iciv — 
stitching. It is then ready for the rop¬ 
ing. The rope should be about Y” in 
diameter and of the best quality. Start¬ 
ing at the top or head of the mainsail 
seize the rope around a thimble (which 
can be bought at any hardware store) 
about two feet from its end, then sew the 
sail (with double string for thread) to 
the rope so that the thimble comes at the 
corner with the two-foot length of rope 
running along the after-edge of the sail 
and the full length running down the 
forward or mast edge. In sewing, keep 
the rope well stretched but the sail just 
tight enough to keep out wrinkles. Sew 
closely and strongly until you come to 
the lower corner between the mast and 
the boom. Here another thimble must 
be seized in. Then proceed along the 
foot, seizing a thimble at the after 
corner and running the rope up the after 
edge about two feet. If you are a nice 
workman, you can untwist the rope, take 
out some of the fibers and twist up these 
two ends of the rope into a nice taper 
’.efore sewing to the sail. Next we 
need a lot of small thimbles about l />" 
in the hole. Six of these we fasten to 
the roped edge of the sail along the mast 
every 18", beginning at the boom. Put 
a larger one at the ends of the reef row. 
Put more of them 12" apart along the 
foot of the sail. They are fastened by 
many turns of string around the rope 
and groove of the thimble. 
The reef points are made of cotton 
the deck. The others are fastened to 
the sides about six inches aft of the 
line of the mast. Next get three turn- 
buckles and 40 feet of rigging wire such 
as is used in radio aerials. You can get 
them at Five and Ten Cent stores now. 
Fasten a wooden shoulder on each 
side of the mast where the fore-stay 
comes and after twisting a good, strong 
eye in the ends of the rigging slip them 
over the mast and down to the shoulders. 
First the starboard or right hand 
shroud; then the port or left hand and 
finally the fore-stay. Open out the 
turnbuckles, fasten one end to the eye- 
plate and run the rigging wire through 
the other. Twist up or seize this tight 
and when all three are ready tighten 
up the turnbuckles until the wires come 
just taught. We have previously run 
the halliards (of YY diam. rope) 
through the blocks at the mast head 
and have both ends of them on deck. 
Splice a snap hook into one end of each 
and run the other end through the lower 
block and put a knot in it. First bend 
on the mainsail. Fasten the lower for¬ 
ward thimble to the end of the boom by 
several turns of cotton rope. Then 
take the other lower after end to the 
other end of the boom and draw it out 
until the foot rope is just tight and 
fasten it there. A hole in the end of the 
boom to take two turns of the cotton 
rope will help to hold it in place. 
(Continued on page 87) 
