you were doing- or trying to do, was 
Cut the top and rear wall in one 
piece, seven and a half by eight feet. 
The end walls can be cut separate al¬ 
lowing a couple of inches of overlap 
to be sewed to top wall with good 
strong linen thread, preferably with a 
double line of stitching. With light 
weight Khaki you can sew all parts 
on the ordinary sewing machine. The 
front flap seven feet high and eight 
feet wide so that the sides will over¬ 
lap the front entrance and to these 
side walls stitch some tape, also stitch 
tape to correspond on the front flap so 
that when the flap is down the sides 
can be closed by tying the tapes. I 
have made a flap of two layers of 
mosquito netting with taped edges to 
hang down the front. If you make 
this eight feet wide it will allow the 
netting to be brought inside the tent 
along the vertical front edges of the 
tent side walls. Make the netting long- 
enough to drag a few inches on the 
ground. When the netting is not in 
use you can roll it up to the top and 
have some tape sewed to inside of top 
wall to hold the roll of netting. 
The two outside poles of soft wood 
(inch stock) should have a metal rod 
driven into the top end so that this 
can be put thru grummet holes sewed 
into the corners of front flap. You 
can make grummet holes by sewing in 
small iron rings. The inside poles will 
stand into the corners of the tent with¬ 
out other means of support. 
Another very acceptable addition is 
a floor cloth made of heavy waterproof 
duck the area of the tent floor. This 
should be heavily coated with water¬ 
proof paint if you make it from heavy 
duck tenting material. With a good 
waterproofed floor cloth you have a 
suitable waterproof cover to wrap the 
tent in and keep it dry, en route. Be 
sure to place folded tent on the inside 
of floor cloth as the bottom surface 
may be a bit damp after a nights use 
on the ground and this might cause 
mildew of the tent. 
A good mosquito netting and floor 
cloth are to my mind as necessary as 
a waterproof tent for real camping- 
comfort. They take up little room and 
serve many purposes. 
For guy ropes, quarter inch rope 
Page 31Z 
serves all purposes. I made two loops 
to fit over the metal rods of front poles 
which makes it easy to drop the flap 
when desired. The other guy ropes 
sewed with strips of overlapping can¬ 
vas or put thru small grummet holes 
sewed into tent walls. 
W. A. Kimball. 
A GUARD FOR CAMP 
STOVES 
A Piece of sheet iron or zinc, cut and 
hinged to fit Gasoline Cook Stove, 
will prevent wind from blowing out the 
flame. 
Winpshielp For camp S'tove. 
This guard may be folded compactly 
when not in use. 
W. A. Kimball. 
CANOEING AND CAMPING 
AN ART 
ANOEING and camping like other 
sports is an art, and has to be 
learned by experience. Although, a few 
hints and rules will not go amiss, while 
a few are really needed before one in¬ 
dulges in the same. 
You experienced canoers and camp¬ 
ers may smile, but—you remember the 
first time you paddled a canoe? How 
difficult it was to keep the clumsy pad¬ 
dle from splashing, and make the ob¬ 
stinate canoe go straight, ’member? 
Also how you went camping leaving- 
needed articles at home; the time you 
lit nearly every match in camp trying 
to light a fire—’member those days? 
Now, if some one who had gone 
through this primitive stage whispered 
a few hints and suggestions in your 
ear, wouldn’t you have found paddling 
a little easier or camping more simple 
—enjoyed it better by knowing, what 
right? Well, then read some other in¬ 
teresting article, passing this by for 
the young folks whom are about to 
partake of their first camp trip or just 
learning to paddle. 
The best and most convenient way 
to paddle a canoe is to kneel on the 
bottom of the canoe-blanket protecting 
knees from the floor boards—and lean 
against the middle swarth. 
Paddling in the center of the canoe, 
when alone, is the recommended way. 
For if you paddle from the stern 
(back) the front of the canoe will nat¬ 
urally, from your weight, project above 
the water, the wind will blow you in 
circles, but— 
If you are shooting rapids or in 
swift water and have a pack, kneel in 
the stern and if you can paddle with 
greater ease, then, adopt this style of 
paddling, providing you have weight in 
the bow (front) of the canoe. 
Of course, when two are paddling, 
one kneels in the bow and the other 
in the stern, the latter steers the ca¬ 
noe; the bow-man never steers. 
When paddling alone, kneel slightly 
toward the side you wish to paddle 
from, this makes the gunwale nearer 
the water, giving you freedom of 
stroke, by not scraping your paddle 
along the side of the canoe. Don’t 
fear, the canoe will not tip over, if your 
knees are on the bottom of the canoe. 
They are your balancers. 
If you are paddling on the right side, 
take hold of the top of your paddle 
with your left hand and with your right 
hand about four to five inches from 
where the blade broadens. 
Reach out nearly at arm’s length in 
front of you—clip three-fourths of 
blade, then pull with your right, equally 
push with your left and lean your body 
with each stroke. 
Push, pull and lean, till your right 
hand nearest the blade is even with 
your body, your left arm will be ex¬ 
tended forward and downward, nearly 
at arm’s length. Rest just a moment. 
Then, the flat side of the paddle fac¬ 
ing your rear, turn it, so it faces the 
bank, push paddle slightly away from 
the canoe, till boat straightens from 
(Continued on page 324) 
